Issue link: http://papercitymagazine.uberflip.com/i/1225773
BY LAURANN CLARIDGE. PHOTOGRAPHY ANA HOP. ART DIRECTION MICHELLE AVIÑA. W henever I fi nd myself in a sophisticated food marketplace such as Joan's on Third in L.A. or Draeger's Market in Menlo Park — packed with freshly packaged meals, artisanal cheeses, wines, and the aroma of warm baked goods — I bemoan, "Why isn't there anything like this in Houston." Well, it seems there is. Check out the second location of Tres Market on Joanel Street, the charming food emporium from owners Julie Rhyne and Jeanine Holland, on the site of the former Mom's Kitchen. While Tres Market is new to many inner loopers, Rhyne and Holland have been turning out impeccably fresh fare for the last 19 years to lucky residents living near their original Memorial location. These humble proprietors don't label the food gourmet; I'd describe it as the sort of comforting, relatable (dare I say even Southern-inspired) meals that taste like they were lovingly made in your own home kitchen — provided you're a very good cook. Stop in for coffee and stay for a scone, croissant, or muffi n, or take it to go with an off-the-menu breakfast taco. The surroundings are so pretty, with wicker seating and fresh fl owers at the entrance, that it would be a shame to dash off too quickly. At noon, the place is bustling with box-lunch orders — the sort you'll love to unpack at your desk, like bacon and egg salad spread on challah bread or beef tenderloin on Parker House rolls with apple cider mustard, each nestled with a side of fruit, chips, and a sweet treat ($12 each). Chicken salad lovers shouldn't miss this version, especially if you prefer yours fi nely shredded and minced ($12). When the dinner bell rings, swing by to peruse the fresh and frozen entrees in the Tres Market pantry. Whether you're dining alone or every seat at your table is fi lled, this duo has fi gured out portion sizes suitable for whatever company you keep. I started with a garden-fresh Grill Room salad that serves three entrée portions studded with cranberries, nuts, and crisp noodles, along with apple and avocado you can toss with sweet blue cheese dressing — delicious ($18). The hearty, moist meatloaf ($12/$24) with a cup of creamy chicken enchilada soup ($14 quart) was divine. Other tempting entrees include slow-roasted pulled pork ($26), vegetarian lasagna ($12), Big Fat Roasted Chicken Breast with garlic mashed potatoes ($24), and a delightful chicken pot pie ($13/$30). Leave room for the house-baked desserts, from spicy ginger cookies and snickerdoodles to cobblers, cakes, and pies. Tres Market, 2620 Joanel St., 713.640.5103, tresmarketfoods.com. MARKET SHARE Julie Rhyne Jeanine Holland 30