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I t's appropriate that Houston's newest steakhouse, dubbed Gatsby's Prime Steakhouse after F. Scott Fitzgerald's great American novel, resides in a storied 1920s-era building in Montrose that was once home to Boulevard Bistrot, Pax Americana, and BB Lemon. Reserve a table after sunset, and the room that seats just shy of 100 simply glows. Unlike the big bustling steakhouse chains that have migrated to our city over the last two decades, owner Luis Rangel's place has an intimate charm. Here, curvaceous lipstick-red banquettes are poised under small crystal chandeliers; its walls, painted a dark noir hue, are marbled with glints of gold, while the sounds of jazz mingle with tunes crooned softly by the Rat Pack. But, make no mistake: Rangel is ready to compete with the big boys and has manned his latest venture with a seasoned crew, from GM Luis Rodriguez to exec chef Erick Anaya to beverage director Frank Moore. Kick off the evening with one of Moore's exquisitely executed Prohibition-era cocktails, such as the Mary Pickford, a blend of rum, pineapple juice, and Maraschino liqueur that arrives in a classic coupe with a perfect bubble atop the rim ($14). each — are brined in-house and smoked low and slow, finished with a brown-sugar maple glaze ($24). The indulgent pan-seared foie gras, raised in the Hudson Valley, is accompanied by a Lilliputian brioche loaf that carries the precious liver from plate to palate ($19). Really want to show off? Order a chilled seafood tower for the table with your choice of lobster, crab legs, and cocktail shrimp — or play it like Jay Gatsby and make it caviar: Russian ossetra ($200) or Beluga hybrid ($300). Main courses take you by land and by sea, with surf selections including salmon ($35), ahi tuna ($46), lobster tails, and steamed crab legs (each at market price), while turf options include an 8-ounce filet ($49), Wagyu filet (market price), and a 22-ounce rack of lamb ($58). The chef procures wet aged beef (at 28 days) then creates a seasoning rub and dry-ages his beef another seven days to create a depth of flavor. Desserts are Americana favorites such as Rangel's Red Velvet, classic cheesecake. and warm brioche bread pudding ($9 to $12 each). Open for dinner service at 5 pm Tuesday through Sunday. Gatsby's Prime Steakhouse, 4319 Montrose Blvd., 713.393.7282, gatsbysteakhouse.com. FITZGERALD, PARTY OF TWO BY LAURANN CLARIDGE Anaya's menu is as hedonistic as the Jazz Age itself. Starters include two deviled-egg variations (let's call them West Egg and East Egg). The fried deviled eggs feature a classic whipped yolk coated with seasoned panko crumbs, served with chipotle aioli for dipping ($8), while the deluxe deviled eggs are crowned with a fried shrimp and dollop of bacon jam ($18). Then there's the maple-glazed bacon, where two thick, double-smoked slabs — 4 ounces MICHAEL ANTHONY The new Gatsby's Prime Steakhouse Deluxe deviled eggs Gatsby's ahi tuna 58