PaperCity Magazine

PaperCity Dallas May 2022

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spot in 2013, reviving the once sleepy space with a menu of classics executed with Michelin-star precision and a design that evoked the mid- century heyday of Italian American fine dining — complete with vintage- style tuxedos designed by Zac Posen. Rosemary Clooney's 1954 hit "Mambo Italiano" comes to mind: "If you gonna be a square, you're never gonna go nowhere." Carbone restaurant has since expanded to Las Vegas, Hong Kong, Miami (early last year), and now, Dallas. Both Carbone and Carbone Vino were designed by Major Food Group go-to designer Ken Fulk. "Ken visits a space and has an idea immediately," Carbone says. "We start over in each new city. We want each location to be its own thing." Of the design, which breathes old-world elegance, Fulk says, "It's utterly glamorous and filled with big doses of high style." The space reflects Venetian design and glamour, layered with new-age decadence; the focal point in a private dining room is a vibrant pink Murano chandelier. Call it unapologetic opulence. In Carbone Vino, which offers a more laid-back experience with al fresco dining, fresh lemon trees line the windows. Fulk points out the banquettes set against rich mahogany wood "for a cozy seat with an enviable view of the buzzing dining room," the hand-painted apothecary cabinets, and gilded mirrors in Vino. "But it's the dual allure of rolling up to a swanky dining experience or lingering in a European- style cafe that will keep guests coming back for more," he says. And then there's the food … Carbone's signature dishes appear on the Dallas menu, including the famed spicy rigatoni in vodka sauce; veal chop Parmesan; octopus pizzaiolo; and a porterhouse steak for two, grilled over charcoal. The bar has an enviable menu with the classics (Manhattans, Gibsons), and the wine list arguably has the most impressive selection of Italian wines in the city, as well as remarkable vintages from France, the States, and beyond. Next door at Vino, the big thing is thin-crust square pizzas. Expect five options, including one of Mario Carbone's favorites: the clam and Italian sausage pie. "I grew up eating Sicilian pizza, and it's like one slice and you're full," Carbone says. "This will be light and crisp, so you can sit and have a few pieces." Given the buzz around the opening, we anticipate a wait in terms of reservations. However, walk-ins are welcome at Carbone Vino. Expect showmanship at either spot. "This is the closest restaurant comparison to theater," Carbone says. "It's a play." When asked if he might open more restaurants in Texas in the future, Carbone remains mysterious. "I have to find my perfect pair of cowboy boots first." Open Tuesday through Sunday, 5 to 11 pm. Carbone, 1617 Hi Line Dr., carbonedallas.com; reservations, Resy. Dazzling desserts at Carbone Carbone Vino Carbone Carbone Vino The patio of Carbone (Continued from page 52) 54

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