PaperCity Magazine

PaperCity Dallas September 2022

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he restaurant-aissance continues … It's been a crazy few years since Bon Appétit named Dallas the "2019 Restaurant City of the Year." But even through a pandemic, our city's dining scene persevered. Although many of our favorites did not survive, the abundance of new concepts to explore is mind-boggling. And, with these openings comes the anticipation of gathering this fall with friends — or meeting some new ones while cozied up to the bar — in this city we adore so much. Hopefully you've caught up with our past few issues and read about (and perhaps attempted to make a reservation) at hot spots Carbone (and its sister concept next door Carbone Vino), Sadelle's, Sassetta, and The Mexican. In this issue (on page 186), read about the chic, glamorous watering hole Clifton Club, where we've found ourselves in a standing-room situation on more than one occasion. Here, a few other restaurants now on our radar. Restaurant Roundup Restaurant Beatrice 1111 N. Beckley Ave. 469.962.2173 restaurantbeatrice.com Restaurant Beatrice is easily one of our favorite new concepts. First, there are very few BIPOC-owned and -led restaurants celebrating BIPOC food in a fine-dining setting in North Texas, and this is now a standout amongst them. Chef/owner Michelle Carpenter (who also owns nearby Zen Sushi) opened this contemporary Cajun restaurant in an adorable craftsman house on Beckley Avenue. And need we remind our Highland Park and Preston Hollow friends, you don't need to bring your passport and reset your clock to go to Oak Cliff. Named after her grandmother, Beatrice (pronounced bee-AT-russ), the restaurant is influenced by Carpenter's Cajun family traditions. New Orleans native Terance Jenkins — who has worked at the iconic Commander's Place in New Orleans — serves as executive chef. The libations menu offers all you would hope for, with a variety of reds for smoked meats and gumbo, whites for seafood. Might we suggest the signature King Cake Milk Punch with rum cream, pineapple, and almond milk. And, for your meal, start with the Louisiana Charcuterie — a great sampling of house-made andouille, Boudin lollipops, tasso ham, house-made pickles, mustard, biscuit crackers, and preserves. The seasonal Texas peach salad is a tasty way to take in some greens and fresh fruit. For mains, Mammaw's Fried Chicken with pepper jelly and house pickles is a stunner. When the temps begin to drop, we'll be making reservations for brunch on the charming patio, which was just completed. Enjoy more casual dining (perhaps a seafood boil) in the fully covered, fan- cooled outdoor space. Sushi Mocki 5321 E. Mockingbird Lane 469.399.0909 sushimocki.com This recently opened restaurant is destined to become a go-to for Southern Methodist University sushi-philes, given that it's walking distance from campus. Sushi Mocki's proximity to Highland Park also satisfies that community's craving for By Billy Fong and Megan Ziots California and rainbow rolls. The Mustang crowd will cheer for the SMU roll comprised of shrimp tempura, spicy tuna, cucumber, and avocado topped with crab meat, tempura flakes, spicy mayo, wasabi sauce, and unagi sauce. And those on a carb- free diet can choose from a variety of rice-less rolls. We recommend the Dallas roll made with tuna, salmon, yellowtail, white tuna, shrimp, and red snapper, topped with masago; and the Armando roll, an intriguing combination of crab mix, avocado, tempura flakes, and truffle oil wrapped with tuna and topped with lemons, sriracha, spicy mayo, and unagi sauce. La Stella Cucina Verace 2330 Flora St. 469.663.7800 lastellatx.com Is the city of Dallas slowly morphing into Little Italy? Well, we say the more the merrier. Dallas' Arts District recently welcomed La Stella Cucina Verace, a new concept from Tricolore Pride. The Dallas location — in the former Flora Street Cafe space — is the company's flagship. Led by chef Luigi Iannuario, La Stella serves up authentic, nostalgic Italian family recipes including Agnoletti Pizzicati, Pappardelle Stellari, and Risotto Oro. And the people watching here is as good as the food: The dining room has panoramic windows for scoping out the action when events conclude at the AT&T Performing Arts Center across the street. Brentwood Restaurant + Bar 5318 Beltline Road 214.217.0100 brentwood.restaurant Brentwood, the sixth concept from Vandelay Hospitality Group (Hudson House, Drake's Hollywood, D.L. Mack's, The Anchor Bar, East Hampton), recently opened in the former Houston's space in North Dallas — and all you Preston Hollow types couldn't be happier. With an oak bar flanked by black tufted leather booths, equestrian artwork, and other nods to timeless American design, Brentwood draws a crowd sporting the type of casual that employs gingham and loafers. The menu is an updated take on classic Wits Steakhouse (Continued) KATHY TRAN 190

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