PaperCity Magazine

PaperCity Houston November 2022

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Fashion Notes By Steven Hempel I n stark contrast to the Balenciaga show covered on these pages, the work of Bottega Veneta took on issues of the day with a splash of color. Artistic director Matthieu Blazy's show sought to democratize high fashion, creating works "not just for one woman or one man, but for men and women." Set in Milan, it featured a collaboration with esteemed Italian artist, architect, and designer Gaetano Pesce, whose works, while serious, brought a sense of levity to the show. Given complete creative freedom by Blazy to create a site-specific installation, Pesce created a sculptural resin floor and 400 chairs, with each piece being unique, entitled Come Stai? The chairs were created from traditional toile fabric dipped in resin. Pesce seemed to revel in the effort and praised Bottega for its efforts to bring art and design to a new audience. About the collaboration, he said, "It is a message that is super political — and it is not a museum or a gallery that is helping me convey it. Who makes culture today? The museum or the fashion company?" A fair question indeed. As fate will have it, Pesce's works are slated to be exhibited at Design Miami November 30 through December 4. P r o v o c a t i v e S p a n i s h i n s t a l l a t i o n artist Santiago Sierra created a site-specific installation for Balenciaga's Spring/Summer 2023 show for Paris Fashion Week. He used 275 cubic meters of sod to fill the center of the Parc des Expositions de Villepinte convention center on the outskirts of Paris, creating a black mass that set the stage for the darkness that would follow. In lock step with Demna, Balenciaga's creative director, Sierra's work left a literal imprint on the proceedings as black-clad models marched through black mud, following the footprints of those who Dirt, Not War MOUNTAIN man Bois More Color, Make Dirt, NOT WAR More … K im Jones and Dior are taking on the Alps. The third launch of Dior's recent series of ski wear, the Men's Spring 2023 Dior Ski Capsule, will make you look like the best skier on the mountain. In fact, you'd better hone your skills prior to donning this attire — because you will be noticed. For this mix of technical expertise and avant-garde styling, Jones paired with Swedish brand POC to create a line of protective accessories and with Japanese clothing specialist Descente for the lifestyle aspects of the line. Knits, insulated tees, ultra-light down jackets and ski pants, and ski suits bring your mountain wear to life, while Dior Peak lace-up ankle boots round out the look. Featuring technical and eco-friendly materials, the latest collection is performance gear with a focus on fashion. Ski lessons sold separately. At the Dior boutique, dior.com. came before. The symbolism was readily apparent — less is more — as Demna and Balenciaga reminded the fashion world of the need to remain down-to-earth, something that likely bears repeating. Sierra, who is represented in Mexico City by Labor gallery, has made his name chronicling social strife and questioning social structures. balenciaga.com. Make Gaetano Pesce and Bottega Veneta collaboration Santiago Sierra's sod creation for Balenciaga 20

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