PaperCity Magazine

PaperCity Houston March 2023

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Page 79 of 131

ANDIRON M ichael Sambrooks (The Pit Room, 1751 Sea & Bar, Candente) is on the brink of unveiling Andiron, his splashy new steakhouse. Andiron's menu is an homage to the traditional steakhouse, offering a modern small-plate progressive dining experience with ingredients prepared simply, often with live-fire techniques. Housed in the newly christened Andiron Building, which was originally home to Star Engraving Company, Andiron is just across the street from Stages Theatre's new home, The Gordy. The interiors are by design firm AvroKO; the kitchen is led by chef Louis Maldonado, whose CV includes multiple Michelin-starred restaurants (French Laundry in Yountville, Aziza, Mourad, and Cortez in San Francisco). Andiron, 3201 Allen Parkway. KATAMI F our-time J a m e s B e a r d A w a r d nominee Manabu " H o r i " H o r i u c h i a n d Yu n Cheng own Kata Robata, arguably one of the best Japanese restaurants in Texas. This spring they're opening the sushi-forward restaurant Katami ("gift" in Japanese), designed by Abel Design Group, representing what Chef Hori believes is the future of Japanese cuisine in America. He has fish flown in almost daily from Japan, and he estimates 80 to 95 percent of the fish on Katami's menu will be caught off the coast of Japan about 20 hours before it hits your plate. Standouts include a modern interpretation of dishes rooted in Japanese tradition, such as Wagyu sukiyaki, inspired by the Japanese hot-pot dish but cooked tableside; hot stone abalone and uni dashi; foie gras PBJ; and Toro tartare with kimchi sauce and Japanese milkbread. Katami, 2701 W. Dallas, ELRO PIZZA + CRUDO C hef/owner Terrence Gallivan, a two-time James Beard Award nominee (NYC's Charlie Palmer's Aureole, The Modern, Gordon Ramsey at the London Hotel, Fiamma and Houston's Pass and Provision) is opening Elro, a neighborhood pizzeria and crudo bar housed in a vintage bungalow. "Why pizza and crudo? It was pretty simple," Gallivan says. "I (and most people) love pizza. Since Houston is hot most of the time, balancing pizza with some lighter, more refreshing, cold seafood dishes is a nice combination … It will be a place you can pop in for a drink and bite with friends or an intimate date night." Gallivan, who served as both chef and wine buyer at The Pass and Provisions, will curate a concise wine list here as well. Elro, 2405 Genesee St., LITTLE'S OYSTER BAR JULIE SOEFER JULIE SOEFER Chef Manabu "Hori" Horiuchi at Kata Robata O pening in the former spot of Little Pappas Seafood House (which shuttered during the pandemic) is Little's Oyster Bar, the first and only chef- driven concept owned and operated by the Pappas Restaurants group. Chef Jason Scott Ryczek (Waterbar, Farallon, Alley & Vine) focuses on serving oysters and raw seafood, with fish caught by Pappas' own boats in the Gulf (snapper, grouper, tile). The menu will also feature Ora King salmon, Spanish octopus, and fish from sustainable farms around the country. Caviar — specifically, hand- selected sturgeon roe from California Caviar Company — will also find a place on the California native's menu. Little's Oyster Bar, 3001 S. Shepherd, PS21 T h e s e l f - d e s c r i b e d F r e n c h C o w b o y P h i l i p p e S c h m i t o n c e m a n n e d t h e r a n g e a t s w a n k French restaurants Bistro Moderne at the Hotel Derek, Toulouse, and Philippe Restaurant + Lounge, which closed 10 years ago. Now he's partnering with hospitality veteran Sebastien Laval on PS21, a modern French eatery in the space of the former Queen Vic's on Richmond in the Upper Kirby District. Laval has helped launch high-end Houston restaurants including La Table, MAD, Le Colonial, and Musaafer, so we can't wait to see what's in store. PS21, 2712 Richmond Ave. ARTURO OLMOS Executive Chef Jason Ryczek seasoning charcoal roasted octopus Raclette at PS21 (Continued) 78

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