Issue link: http://papercitymagazine.uberflip.com/i/1501754
L ocated a stone's throw f ro m T h e G a l l e r i a and nestled among the well-heeled River Oaks and Tanglewood neighborhoods, shopping, and restaurant ground zero, River Oaks District attracts a moneyed crowd that dresses for dinner and often aims to see and be seen, moving restlessly from habitat to habitat. The glitterati's latest roost is Bari Ristorante, which has slipped into Tom Ford's former retail space. Operated by longtime restaurateurs Thomas Nally and Pedro Teyuca and backed by private investors from Mexico City and the U.S., Bari evokes classic Italian dishes from north to south, from the cosmopolitan cities of Milan and Rome to the southern port of Bari. Reserve a table for lunch, dinner, or weekend brunch, and you'll find the proverbial ladies who lunch air-kissing their way through the expansive space with soaring ceilings, cozy saffron-colored upholstered chairs, and massive chandeliers with a playful MacKenzie-Childs aesthetic. Walls of Himalayan-sea-salt tiles are backlit to emit a soft orange glow, while outside on the newly expanded patio, you can dine al fresco on Houston's rare temperate days and nights. Aperitivos include standbys with a twist — and we're not referring to lemon. The Bellini, invented at the famed Harry's Bar in Venice, is tinged pink care of the cranberry purée added to the bubbly prosecco and peach nectar ($13). The Negroni has the requisite gin and sweet vermouth, but the Campari is coffee flavored and finished with chocolate bitters ($16). The ample wine list delivers Italian notables, with a predominance of French sparklers and a scattering of California names. For those who c o m e f o r t h e food, keen eyes will recognize the man heading the exhibition-style kitchen: Renato De Pirro, a Certified Master Italian Chef who has been in the restaurant business throughout Italy (including his native Tuscany) and the U.S., including four years helming the range at the intimate eatery Ristorante Cavour at Hotel Granduca. At Bari, he leads a scratch kitchen, importing ingredients such as Italian flour for the pasta and pizzas, as well as tomatoes and cheese from Naples to bring authenticity to the menu. Popular starters include carpaccio di Manzo created with Piedmontese beef tenderloin ($26), insalata caprese ($19), minestrone ($10), and zuppa di pomodoro, a roasted tomato and basil soup with herb- coated croutons ($10). The pizzas all have a pleasant chewy pull and range from the simple Margherita ($20) to the Bari topped with grilled chicken, tomato concassé, black olives, and bell peppers ($24). The pastas range from tagliatelle carbonara with guanciale and pecorino romano ($24) to pappardelle Bolognese ($28). Spaghetti pomodoro is elevated with rich burrata cheese and fresh basil leaves ($27), while ravioli Maremmani is stuffed with homemade ricotta and spinach, finished with brown butter and sage ($24). Portata principale options include veal scaloppine ($34) and filet mignon with a Barolo demi-glace ($48), as well as risotto made with either wild mushrooms and creamy mascarpone ($26) or clams, mussels, prawns, and scallops ($39). Bari Ristorante, River Oaks District, 4444 Westheimer Road, bariristorante.com. You Look Stunning, Darling! By Laurann Claridge. Photography Becca Wright and Debora Smail. Bari Ristorante Branzino al sale at Bari Tagliatelle pomodoro e basilico at Bari