Issue link: http://papercitymagazine.uberflip.com/i/1510302
It's Never a Wrap: Bottega, Dior, and Loewe Fashion is a splendid beauty, where new voices arise to replace the familiar ones almost as soon as we've gotten to know them. In this world, change is the constant reminder of the drip that never seems to stop. A new season begets new looks. Environmental change spurs reflection. The streets inform and set new trends, a sea change from the decades that have passed when the opposite was true. Today we look at Bottega Veneta, Dior, and Loewe — iconic brands that mix Old World heritage with New World ideas as they unveil what is to come for the new year. Bottega Veneta sets out to explore. Upon entering the venue in Milan's Bovisa district, guests were greeted by tiled floors and painted columns portraying penguins, sea life, roosters, and other earthly friends from around the globe. It's a worldview that reflects creative director Matthieu Blazy's desire to Fashion Notes L oewe has launched its latest sneaker, Cloudtilt — the brand's answer for an eco runner with style. Made in collaboration with Swiss footwear maker ON, the sneaker offers five colors, knitted sock construction, speed laces, and an engineered mesh upper made from 99 percent recycled poly- ester. Reserve online at l o e w e . com. forge new paths and seek different directions. While much of the fashion community looks inward, revisiting and reinterpreting house codes, Bottega's Spring/Summer 2024 launch reaches back to the venerable Tom Sawyer in exalting the vibrancy of youth while looking for new ideas and inspiration from around the globe, imparting a decidedly nomadic view of the world today. A need to reconnect to the natural world echoes throughout the works. From simple knitted swimwear to finely crafted oversized intrecciato bags, the collection pulls together disparate objects such as cactus and nautilus-shell dresses, flowers, fireworks, and rock formations to remind us that it's often the simple pleasures that have the most lasting appeal. As cultures merge and the world becomes more homogeneous, Blazy pulls together simple treasures from around the globe. Dior, led by Maria Grazia Chiuri, also looks to the natural world for inspiration — but comes away with far different answers. Chiuri's work is an exploration of femininity in the natural world, prominently backed by the work of artist Elena Bellantoni, whose imagery presents a world wherein women are encouraged to break free of society's constraints. The video installation NOT HER serves as backdrop and mouthpiece for the works that follow. We see an array of garments in black and white, playing off shade and the contrast of colors. We see tears and rips in fabrics, meant to be performative elements of the clothes themselves, and we see bold prints and bold embellishments. While these represent more of the classic Dior, the true message is the backdrop, in a show that relies on the setting as much as the works themselves to tell their story. Finally, we come to Loewe. The heritage Spanish fashion house once again collaborates with American sculptor Lynda Benglis, who's known for her innovative use of form and materiality. Using six large-scale sculptures dubbed Elephant Necklace, the dynamic forms set the tone for the latest collection of blazers, coats, jumpers, jeans, and trousers. There's an emphasis on length. Think of wardrobes that accentuate the vertical with long legs and high waists, mixed with sensual fabrics, textured knits, and a muted palette. This is the house for 2024, sleek and long with soft touches and a focus on small details. See more pics and details on the Spring/Summer 2024 collection at loewe.com. Style Has No Boundaries … and Neither Should You Clockwise from top left: Lynda Benglis sculptures for Loewe, Spring/Summer 2024. Bottega Veneta runway. Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2024. Elena Bellantoni's NOT HER mixed-media artwork in paper format and digital collage, 2023. © SOPHIE CARRE © ELENA BELLANTONI 28