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classic combination of tomato and burrata cheese, they've blanched a whole tomato, peeled it, and filled its cavity with imported Italian burrata, a sliver of tomato (sun-dried to concentrate its flavor), and adorned the plate with fried basil leaves, heirloom cherry tomatoes, and dollops of basil pesto ($19). The scallops, fished from the chilly waters off the East Coast, are seared and plated atop a verdant pool of English pea purée and brought to the table under a glass cloche that emits a subtle cloud of cherry-wood smoke when lifted, before Spanish chorizo broth is poured atop ($23). Entrees include fish, fowl, pasta, risotto, beef, and lamb. I indulged in the latter, a saddle cut (loin) of lamb raised in Colorado, served with black garlic au jus, Niçoise-style potato gnocchi, and bright green florets of Romanesco tossed in a beurre noisette ($72). On the lighter side, the Patagonia salmon — cooked medium rare, unless you request otherwise — is napped with miso yuzu sauce and perched atop a light, fluffy spinach souffle ($32). The wine list embraces grape regions all over the globe but concentrates more than half its offerings on French imports. If you're partial to champagne, lucky you: Sylvian Denis has priced most of them competitively. The talented mixologists have a lot of game, too, crafting cocktails such as an old-fashioned made with Jefferson's Very Small Batch bourbon and Rittenhouse rye, presented in a smoke-filled glass box ($18) and the Summer Negroni with Mount Gay Black Barrel Rum, Campari, sherry, and mint, accented with an ice cube frozen with flecks of edible gold leaf ($18). Next visit, I'll make my way to the bar and order the playful gourmet lollipops. Four to an order, there are a dozen appealing options in hors d'oeuvres- size portions, such as black truffle with brie de Meaux, honeycomb, and a mini baguette ($25) and Hudson Valley foie gras sushi with raspberry vinaigrette ($22). Cocody Restaurant & Bar, River Oaks Shopping Center, 1971 W. Gray, cocodyrestaurant.com. Above: Multicolored quinoa salad at Cocody. (Continued from page 38) DISCOVER THE TREASURES OF ANTIQUE&ESTATE JEWELRY southernclassicjewelry.com Center Aisle, Peck Barn THE COMPOUND ANTIQUE SHOW Round Top, TX SouthernClassicJewelry DISCOVER THE TREASURES OF ANTIQUE&ESTATE JEWELRY southernclassicjewelry.com Center Aisle, Peck Barn THE COMPOUND ANTIQUE SHOW Round Top, TX SouthernClassicJewelry DISCOVER THE TREASURES OF ANTIQUE&ESTATE JEWELRY southernclassicjewelry.com Center Aisle, Peck Barn THE COMPOUND ANTIQUE SHOW Round Top, TX SouthernClassicJewelry DISCOVER THE TREASURES OF ANTIQUE&ESTATE JEWELRY southernclassicjewelry.com Center Aisle, Peck Barn THE COMPOUND ANTIQUE SHOW Round Top, TX SouthernClassicJewelry DISCOVER THE TREASURES OF ANTIQUE&ESTATE JEWELRY southernclassicjewelry.com Center Aisle, Peck Barn THE COMPOUND ANTIQUE SHOW Round Top, TX SouthernClassicJewelry DISCOVER THE TREASURES OF ANTIQUE&ESTATE JEWELRY southernclassicjewelry.com Center Aisle, Peck Barn THE COMPOUND ANTIQUE SHOW Round Top, TX SouthernClassicJewelry DISCOVER THE TREASURES OF ANTIQUE&ESTATE JEWELRY southernclassicjewelry.com Center Aisle, Peck Barn THE COMPOUND ANTIQUE SHOW Round Top, TX SouthernClassicJewelry DISCOVER THE TREASURES OF ANTIQUE&ESTATE JEWELRY southernclassicjewelry.com Center Aisle, Peck Barn THE COMPOUND ANTIQUE SHOW Round Top, TX SouthernClassicJewelry DISCOVER THE TREASURES OF ANTIQUE&ESTATE JEWELRY southernclassicjewelry.com Center Aisle, Peck Barn THE COMPOUND ANTIQUE SHOW Round Top, TX SouthernClassicJewelry