PaperCity Magazine

PaperCity Houston July:August 2024

Issue link: http://papercitymagazine.uberflip.com/i/1522886

Contents of this Issue

Navigation

Page 21 of 83

By Laurann Claridge. Photography Jenn Duncan. known and small producers that add variety and value to the well-conceived list. Guided by Caswell, I started with the light and airy caviar donut ($19 each). Caswell's inspiration for the warm, house-made treat Above: Brunch spread at PostScript. PostScript bar and lounge. B ARBIE'S ISTRO was Shipley's own; here, it's filled with candied shallots and pickled blackberries and rests on a shallow pool of white chocolate ganache, with a crown of Cajun caviar (the roe of Louisiana bowfin, infused with the subtle spice of ghost peppers). I still daydream about this ethereal bite. I moved on to Caswell's pear and endive salad, a delicate assemblage of shaved Asian pear, spiced pecans, and bacon bits enrobed in roasted garlic aioli and delivered like finger food on spears of endive leaves ($12). Don't miss the beef tenderloin carpaccio ($19). Its presentation is reminiscent of a holiday wreath, care of the verdant Yemenite zhoug (a spicy sauce reminiscent of chimichurri, created with cardamom, cumin, chiles, and garlic), topped with ornament-like fresh pomegranate seeds and warm toasted sourdough slices. Speaking of beef, prize-worthy cuts include Akaushi t o m a h a w k r i b e y e ($225), as well as Snake River Wagyu filet ($98), along with accompaniments such as jumbo prawns, lump crab, and lobster tail, all sautéed in garlic or truffle butter. Large plates include seared Gulf snapper cradled in a rich brown butter sauce studded with diced tomatoes and laid atop a bed of sweet-and-sour Swiss chard with tender onion soubise ($41), as well as mustard- glazed short rib propped up with salsify and candied mushrooms ($47). Pastry chef Maria Elena Garcia (whom Caswell met at the start of her career at Hotel Icon) provides comforting sweet endings, such as a gingerbread ice cream sandwich ($13) and a shareable two-tiered tea tray ($23) filled with cupcakes, diminutive financiers, madeleines, truffles, and pâte de fruits. PostScript, Shops at Arrive River Oaks, 2800 Kirby Dr., postscripthtx.com. I f Barbie and Ken met for date night in Houston, the multi-hyphenate career girl would f e e l q u i t e a t home perched on a plush pink banquette at PostScript eatery. Situated a stone's throw from Tootsies in the Upper Kirby District, this fuchsia-hued enclave — where your taste for champagne can be quenched with the push of a button — has captured the hearts of the ladies who lunch, shop, and dine after dark with their own versions of Ken. PostScript was created by owners Veeral Rathod and Obi Ibeto of Dallas-based GAP Concepts (the similarly pink XOXO Dining Room and Lyla in Dallas, and the upcoming Drai's Dallas). Drive by the space on Kirby near Westheimer, and you can't miss the shocking pink exterior festooned w i t h h a n d m a d e butterflies crafted by artist Romain Lefebvre (aka Punk Me Tender), while Houston designer Erin Hicks has deftly grounded the interiors with an under-lit bar covered with slices of hot-pink agate, custom-made in Brazil, a bold zigzag pattern of black-and-white marble tiles underfoot, and cushy floral- backed dining chairs that cosset guests. The 9,300-square-foot space, in the former stead of Del Frisco's Grille, seats 283 throughout. One glance at PostScript's new American-inspired offerings reveals that the fare is far from child's play. The menu was developed by consulting executive chef Bryan Caswell, the award-winning toque brought back to Houston by über-chef Jean- Georges Vongerichten to lead the opening of the Hotel Icon's Bank restaurant before opening his much-loved (now shuttered) restaurants Reef and El Real Tex-Mex Café. Manning the wine cellar and cocktail program is Jeb Stuart, whom you might recognize from his years with Coltivare. Stuart has compiled more than 40 wines by the glass, including lots of bubbly names you'll no doubt recognize, as well as lesser-

Articles in this issue

Links on this page

Archives of this issue

view archives of PaperCity Magazine - PaperCity Houston July:August 2024