PaperCity Magazine

PaperCity Houston September 2024

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smoked heirloom tomato salad on a bed of piquillo pepper purée with crisp pearls of quinoa and crunchy puffs of sorghum atop a balsamic glaze ($18) and a kampachi crudo composed like a rose with a pickled daikon as its stamen, resting in a shallow pool of passion fruit, orange, and ginger chilled broth ($20). Veer from a steak-centered entrée to a composed dish such as beef short rib Wellington for two, the pâté, mushroom duxelles, and puff pastry- wrapped meat topped with a demi-glace alongside carrot purée and cippolini onions ($128) or a double lobster tail napped with lobster bisque and yuzu-spiked fennel purée ($86). S t a y i n g t r u e t o o n e longstanding steakhouse tradition, Turner's Cut offers indulgent sides, from mac and cheese studded with chunks of Alaskan king crab and bacon ($48) to the laborious-to- prepare pommes soufflées — crisp yet light twice-fried potatoes puffed in the center that taste like a cross between a French fry and potato chip ($19). Sommelier Royston Remick oversees a list of 3,000 bottles (and growing) with vintages that go as far back as 1947 and include domains in France, Italy, and Spain, as well as New World varietals. He's also worked directly with a number of producers to curate the Turner's Cut Collection, which he expects to grow to 25 different varieties. Cocktails, spirited and otherwise, include classic sours, gimlets, as well as ancestral variations on the old-fashioned. I adored my drink, Sophia's Bubbly Punch, a pink-hued elixir created with Aperol, St-Germain, and brut champagne served in a coupe glass chilled with a rose-shaped ice cube ($24). The meal ends with a sartorial splash, especially if you order corporate pastry chef Ruchit Harneja's showstopping Turner's Cut Opera, a classic French layered cake composed in a cylindrical fashion, brought to the table beneath a cloche of a different sort: a Macallan bottle that emits a coffee- scented smoke as it's lifted to reveal the pastry inside ($19). Playing with the concept of trompe l'oeil, the crème fraiche cheesecake is dressed as a cut mandarin, with orange-colored citrus segments ($17). Turner's Cut, Autry Park, 811 Buffalo Park Dr., Ste 160, turnerscut.com. Above: Smoked heirloom tomato salad 3 Briarwood Court Robert Bland Broker Associate M: 713.252.6588 rbland@compass.com 4 BD | 4+ BA | 15,791 SF | 52 ,969 LOT SF Robert Bland is a real estate agent affiliated with Compass. Compass is a licensed real estate broker and abides by federal, state and local laws. Equal Housing Opportunity.

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