PaperCity Magazine

PaperCity Houston September 2024

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The New Marigold Club. Summer trifle. By Laurann Claridge. Photography Arturo Olmos. BAILEY AND PETE McCARTHY PREMIERE THE MARIGOLD CLUB WITH A MENU THAT'S A ROMP THROUGH THE BEST OF BRITISH AND GALLIC FARE. WELCOME CLUB I n a love letter to London, stylish couple Bailey and Pete McCarthy and their colleagues a t G o o d n i g h t Hospitality (March, Rosie Cannonball, Montrose Cheese & Wine) recently expanded their restaurant empire with The Marigold Club in the stead of their shuttered honky-tonk, Goodnight Charlie's, in the Montrose — a project that's been years in the making. The McCarthys crossed the pond and brought a bit of London's posh Mayfair district, along with the exclusivity of the city's storied member-only clubs, back to Houston. After all, the top restaurants in London have rivaled the best in Paris for several years now. CIA classically trained chef and partner Austin Waiter (former executive chef at Tony's) spent nearly three months staging in Michelin-lauded haunts in London, bringing to Marigold a beautiful blend of England's most famous dishes, built on a foundation of French culinary classics. The opulent space, lit by a pair of custom Murano glass chandeliers dripping with hand-blown pink tulip and marigold blossoms, feels like you're strolling into an enchanted English garden, with a glorious bouquet at its entry arranged by The Petaler, the English-trained florist aka Elizabeth Miller. Designed in part by the Austin-based architecture group Fox Fox Studio, the intimate dining room is appointed with plush moss- and marigold-colored velvet upholstery that cosset each diner's seat. The playful hand-painted mural by artist Pauline de Roussy de Sales was inspired by Bemelmans Bar (and the art of lauded children's author Ludwig Bemelmans), A n n a b e l 's , a n d S k e t c h L o n d o n , telegraphing a celebration of partygoers clinking champagne glasses, table hopping and air-kissing. Illuminating each crisp, white-cloaked table are brass lamps capped with white silk shades painted with cheeky cowboys and cocktails and a sleek black Steinway & Sons player piano. Those who make a trip to the elegant marble-lined loo find themselves in arguably the prettiest powder room in the city, lined with hand-painted de Gournay wallpaper. Helmed by partners June Rodil, CEO and Master Sommelier, and James Beard-nominated chef Felipe Riccio (who oversees the kitchens here and at March and Rosie Cannonball), the grand Marigold Club coddles and inspires to make one feel a part of a club only a few can join. The 160 seats (counting the light-filled Atrium and private-room areas) are filled with pretty young things, as well as the socially noble. Cocktails (even those free of spirits) are spins on the classics, from martinis ($18-$20) to gin and tonics made with marigold- infused gin ($18) and a Victorian punch stirred up with brandy, bonato, and clarified milk punch ($18). Rodil and wine director Ryan Cooper (Montrose Cheese & Wine) have brought us a wine list dominated by French varietals that highlight the best grape-growing regions of France. Of course, there's a smattering of bottles from Italy and elsewhere on the expansive list, where you can find a Domaine Ambroise pinot noir from Burgundy by the glass ($25) or skip the mortgage payment and pop the cork on a bottle of 1976 Krug brut for $3,762. The menu is a fun romp through the best of British and Gallic fare. Take the English gougère, airy little pâte à choux bites filled with creamy aged Membrillo cheddar in lieu of Gruyère ($12), and TO THE 34

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