Issue link: http://papercitymagazine.uberflip.com/i/1525828
Kaluga caviar toast built on Melba toast topped with chive-scented crème fraîche and a dollop of caviar ($16 each). The chef, raised in Connecticut, procures sustainable seafood on the raw bar mostly from the chilly waters of the Northeast to create scallop crudo bathed in a broth of cucumber and vermouth with Meyer lemon chutney and juniper oil ($26) and tuna tartar touched with a bit of Earl Grey tea on delicate house-made Melba toast ($29). Shareable starters include the Fish "Not" Chips, an array of delicately fried scallops, oysters, and shrimp with green beans, all dipped in a gin-spiked tempura-like batter with a light citrus yogurt dip ($29). The Marigold salad sports spears of crisp little gem lettuce coated with a honey crème fraîche dressing and topped with a sprinkling of roasted almond crumbs ($17). On a future visit, this New England-reared writer will partake in Waiter's rendition of chowder, made with mussels and littleneck clams flavored with bacon lardons in a rich velouté ($24), but that night I was sated by the comforting pillow- soft orbs of ricotta gnudi, the gnocchi-like dumpling accented with squash, pepperonata, and parm ($19). Entrees include duck Wellington, inspired by the British beef version but in this case, Waiter dry-cures the magret (breast) and cooks it via sous-vide before it's wrapped in a puff pastry and baked to serve ($55). Alas, the Dover sole doesn't hail from the coastal waters of Dover, England; instead, it hails from Spain and is topped with a caper raisin butter sauce and braised pearl onions ($75), while the seared striped bass is napped with a mild Vadouvan curry with braised leeks and fennel ($39). Most of the dishes are quite subtle in taste, like the less gamy Colorado- raised lamb loin that's seared on point to medium rare and built on a Romesco purée with Kalamata olives and caraway jus ($58). Come dessert, one can't help but be tempted by the rolling sundae carts making their way through the dining room, where chai tea, clotted cream, and chocolate ice creams are scooped and topped with candied hazelnuts, vanilla- scented marshmallows, and treacle brownie bits ($22). Or select a summer trifle layered in a dainty trifle dish with bergamot curd, cassis jam, and almond shortbread t o p p e d w i t h C h a n t i l l y whipped cream ($12). The Marigold Club, 2531 Kuester St., themarigoldclub.com. Clockwise from top: Dining room and bar at The Marigold Club. Hand-painted mural by artist Pauline de Roussy de Sales in the dining room and bar. The raw bar. Chef Austin Waiter's tartare of beef filet. 36