PaperCity Magazine

PaperCity Houston December 2024

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T he Michelin G u i d e — recognized globally as the arbiter of gastronomic taste, its star system a benchmark for fine dining internationally — has officially launched in Texas. Since the guide's arrival was announced, restaurants from Houston, Dallas, Fort Worth, San Antonio, and Austin have been vying for a coveted star — preferably two or more, maybe even three, the maximum number given by the anonymous reviewers employed by Michelin. At the recent unveiling of the guide at a dinner in Houston, we learned which eateries across the state made the coveted compendium. But before you rush off to reserve a table, let's consider the standards of Le G u i d e R o u g e , as it's known in i t s b i r t h p l a c e of France, its influence, and the strict methodology employed in a Michelin review. T he Michelin Brothers — French-born founders of what is today the second largest tire manufacturer in the world, created the guide in 1900 as the means to promote driving across the country in cars equipped with their tires, bien sûr. The first guides included local maps and emergency numbers to aid weary drivers. By 1936, the powers that be moved to the restaurant star rating system still in use today. Inspectors pose anonymously as customers, often THE MICHELIN GUIDE, ARBITER OF GASTRONOMIC TASTE, MAKES A TEXAS DEBUT GRAZING STAR By Laurann Claridge. dining alone, and pay in full to ensure they never receive special treatment. Culled from the hospitality industry, these secret diners have expertise in the food, dining, and h o t e l s e c t o r s , m a n y having formerly worked behind the proverbial range themselves. Make no mistake, none of the stars awarded are ever the result of just one inspector's assessment; they're the ranking of a collective who have visited each establishment numerous times. A Michelin Star should possess the same value, regardless of where in the world it is located. As a team, they discuss the rating before making a final decision. And, if you think beautiful decor or pristine service will win a restaurant high praise, think again. According to Michelin, stars are awarded for the food on the plate, nothing else. Famed for decades throughout Europe, the 124-year-old annually revised guide arrived stateside in 2005 and included New York City in its first North American venture. A Las Vegas edition was printed three years later; shortly afterwards, it was pulled due to poor sales. Confounded by the guide's lagging sales worldwide and increased competition from outfits such as The World's 50 Best Restaurants, Michelin hired the consulting agency Accenture in 2010 to assess and remedy the situation. The firm's advice? Examine potential market expansions, then approach local government-run convention and visitor's bureaus and other city marketing agencies to underwrite the endeavor. The payoff can be substantial — and not only for the city or state that benefits from an increase in March Le Jardinier Tatemó 78

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