Issue link: http://papercitymagazine.uberflip.com/i/1542302
soft-shell oysters, a dish of the Ortegas' own making where a deep-fried Gulf oyster devoid of its outer shell is swaddled in a custom-molded edible shell with a bed of coleslaw, smoked oyster aioli, and glowing orange trout roe ($16). S o m m e l i e r E l v i s Espinoza (Xochi, Caracol) compiled the wine selections, where varietals grown in the Alta and Baja regions play a starring role. Order the Las Californias wine tasting flight (three-ounce pour, $18), where wines from Mexico go head-to- head against noteworthy blends from California. For those who prefer to quaff a spirited option, beverage director Carlos Serrano has shaken and stirred some compelling libations, from sakura maya made with a raspberry and saffron-infused sake, pulque (the fermented sap of the agave), and pisco ($17) to a half-dozen alluring margarita selections ($14 – $34). Dessert is where Ruben Ortega shines. He head-huddled with lead pastry chef Roxy Puga to create sweets such as Dólar tableside with spears of hearts of romaine, anchovies, and a shower of shaved Italian Parmigiano Reggiano ($15/$29). Tipping their toque to the olives grown and olive oil produced in California (in this case, a spiced variety from Casa Magoni), the olive bread baked by Magnol arrives warm with herb-infused butter and olive oil for dipping ($9). Conchas include ostiones suaves, or de Arena, a white chocolate sand dollar poised atop a creamy coconut mousse with almond praline and candied strips of nori ($16) to the exotic Erizo del Mar, a spiked chocolate shell resembling a sea urchin filled with lemon verbena cream, hibiscus gel, a passion-fruit sponge cake, and a hibiscus-laced caramel ($18). Zaranda, 1550 Lamar, zarandahouston.com. Left: Hugo Ortega. Dolár de Arena white chocolate sand dollar with coconut mousse at Zaranda. 1114 Taft Street Houston, Texas 77019 713.630.0030 www.sarahbalinskas.com @sarahbalinskas_artservices A CURATED APPROACH TO FRAMING Protecting the integrity and value of your collection with unparalleled expertise • 40+ years of Master Craftsmanship • Collaborative Design Process • Archival Preservation • Bespoke Display Solutions & Alternatives • Trusted by Collectors, Institutions & Designers Fine Framing | Display Alternatives | Frame Restoration