Issue link: http://papercitymagazine.uberflip.com/i/1545489
F ried selections, otherwise known as agemono, include the delicate agedashi tofu, crisp cubes of perfectly fried tofu accompanied with a sweet and savory garlic tentsuyu dipping sauce made with dashi, soy, and mirin ($7). Karaage consists of fried chicken-thigh pieces dressed with sauce gribiche, that classic tangy French egg-based concoction accented with Dijon mustard, capers, and cornichons ($11). The cheeky udon carbonara leans into another European dish, this time an iconic Italian pasta ($18). Made with thick udon-style wheat noodles and napped in an unctuous, creamy egg and pecorino cheese sauce, this decadent dish is topped with a brunoise of Toga burger with ground Wagyu brisket and beef heart smoked bacon and a flurry of shaved pecorino. Meanwhile, the Wagyu burger is a mixture of ground Wagyu brisket and beef heart served on a potato bun with Comté, tomato marmalade, and red onion ($25). The vegetable- studded succotash pays homage to the American South with miso- braised butter beans seasoned with diced Lady Edison ham ($16). Desserts are equally unexpected and delightful. Options include torrija, a French toast-style dish sweetened with turbinado sugar floating on a thick embered cream infused with the scent and subtle flavor of charcoal smoke ($11), and raspberry froyo with a dark chocolate glaze, accented with crushed pink peppercorns and orange zest ($9). Toga, Arrive River Oaks, 2800 Kirby Dr., commahospitality.com/toga.