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XXX PAPERCITY PROMOTION A s with all Duro Hospitality projects, what makes Sister restaurant a Dallas classic is a sleight-of-hand mix of style and service, delicious food and captivating cocktails, flattering lighting and a soundtrack by Duro-partner Chas Martin that engages without drowning the conversation at your table. "It's not food second, and service and design first," Martin says. "Everything from the cocktails to the food to the design to the playlist has to work like a symphony Dallas has no shortage of culinary destinations, which makes the enduring affection locals reserve for Sister Restaurant a remarkable accomplishment. Opened in the former location of The Grape on Greenville Avenue in 2021, Sister has become a worthy successor to that beloved spot with an ambitious menu, cozy-meets- glam decor, and confident service. Founded by partners Benji Homsey, Chas Martin, and J. Chastain, with aesthetic support from designers Corbin See and Ross See of Sees Design, Sister was initially intended to be a slightly more relaxed sibling of Duro's out-of-the-gate success, The Charles. "In 2019, we got a text message from a developer offering The Grape, which had been in the same spot for 48 years," Martin says. "We couldn't pass up the opportunity — it was too interesting historically, and the space was too special. We thought it needed something great that fit the neighborhood." ONE OF DALLAS' FAVORITE RESTAURANTS CELEBRATES FIVE YEARS Five years ago, Greenville Avenue hadn't yet reached the culinary heights it enjoys today, so the concept of opening Sister outside of the Knox/Uptown/Highland Park trifecta was trailblazing. On hand to refine the menu was J. Chastain, former culinary director of The Charles, who is now a full Duro partner. Chastain's wife, Sarah, was the former executive chef at The Grape, so he knew he needed to honor the history of the iconic space. "We needed to keep that neighborhood vibe," he says. Martin and Chastain had already refined their take on classic Italian at The Charles, so they evolved a new culinary genre they understood intimately, Mediterranean — "leaning more into African flavors and Iranian flavors that you don't normally find," says Chastain. The menu has plenty of handmade pastas, wood-fired meats, mezze plates, and ambitious vegetable options to choose from, while harissa octopus and Moroccan spiced chicken share space with veal and pork meatballs and wild Boaranaise. "A big part of what we focus on is transporting our guests out of Dallas, at least mentally, says Homsey. "The reason why food and beverage taste better when you're on vacation is your head is in a better space. That transportive kind of approach is a focus of ours. We want you to feel you could be in some small town in Tuscany having a great bowl of pasta." The partners originally planned to call the space Charlie's, but settled on Sister, The Charles' sibling. With lush banquettes nestled under leafy trees, curiosity-filled cabinets and a rose marble bar, the lounge- meets-dinner space is welcoming and warm, glamorous and chill. "I studied opera and musical theater at SMU before I went to culinary school," says Martin, "and a restaurant is like a Broadway show. We're putting on a show every night at 5 pm. The curtain opens, the lights go on, and it's showtime!" Sister, 2808 Greenville Ave., sempresister.com. Sister Act