PaperCity Magazine

February 2014 - Dallas

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Jeff Byron Carmen Godwin revealed itself. Bleachers surrounded the runway, upon which hay was artfully scattered like a Donald Judd installation. Chandeliers swung from the beams, decked out with alternating drapeaux from the European Union, France, the United States and Texas. At last the show began, and as if the gods had turned on a spigot, divine, blinding beauty flowed out. The creations astonished at every turn with their technicality and ingenious marriage of western themes and hallmark Chanel fabrics and silhouettes. There were tweed jackets and matching below-the-knee skirts as suitable for Annie Oakley as for our own Gene Jones. Trompe l'oeil stockings gave the effect of a knee-high cowboy boot. There were astonishing feathers from Lemarié painted with Navajo patterns and trademark interlocking Cs, which were placed in the models' hair — thrilling enough to make even dear Pocahontas swoon; stunning Lesage embroidery (most notably, a metallic finished leather skirt and matching jacket in tones of cream, black and espresso, worn by Joan Smalls); ethereal and diaphanous white dresses layered, pleated, feathered and embroidered for a breathtaking effect; and shrewd bouclé jackets with exaggerated shoulders mimicking the skirts of a western saddle. There were men's fur-sleeved sweaters, fur- covered square-toed Massaro boots, poignant little black hats from Maison Michel, luxurious hand-dyed scarves fashioned as kerchiefs and an incredible series of succulent men's tweed coats with Desrues buttons that left me with no excuse for the dearth of Chanel in my own wardrobe. As fashion tradition demands, the final two looks were white bridal odes, with Caroline de Maigret in an immaculate floor-length war bonnet rendered in pristine white eagle feathers, blanc blouson and white leather pants with fringe and conchos running down the outfacing seams. Once the looks had walked, Karl appeared, sauntered half the runway's length and exited quickly, followed by a stampede of supermodels for the show's finale — among them, Georgia May Jagger, Dree Hemingway, Jamie Bochert, and the inimitable Crystal Renn — joined by Karl's godson, 5-year-old Hudson Kroenig, and his model-father Brad. The audience rushed for a chance to meet Lagerfeld. I stood back and was heftily rewarded with an intimate moment with actress Kristen Stewart … and her bodyguard, who promptly dismissed me. I met the famous Marie-Louise de Clermont-Tonnerre, the exceedingly stylish directrice of PR for Chanel in Paris who typifies instinctive French elegance to such a degree that it makes you wonder if there really is any hope for the rest of us. Seven years of French allowed me to introduce myself and thank her for Chanel's interest in and appreciation of Texas. She graciously nodded and moved on. Then we were off to the after-party, which was the chicest — and smokiest — saloon I've ever seen. Anna Wintour and her brood buzzed by. To my right, Dakota Fanning engaged in a game of pool; to my left, Dallas-born model Erin Wasson gleefully introduced her mother to her coterie of international friends. On stage was a buxom and cheerful dance instructor in high-waisted Wranglers, Justin ropers, a button-down and headset around her long bright blonde hair, teaching fashion's finest how to line dance. I'll never forget her much-repeated mantra: "Now move your tushy to the right …" Karl's entourage was seated near the dance floor, stage left of the towering windmill erected for the night. Among them were actress Geraldine Chaplin, former Interview editor in chief Ingrid Sischy, and Houston's Lynn Wyatt in an haute couture jacket from Fall/ Winter 2013, meticulously finished in shimmering paillettes depicting swooning swallows. Austrian baroness and stylist Caroline Sieber (Karl made an astonishing haute couture gown for her recent Viennese wedding) floated past, as did French TV personality Mademoiselle Agnès and L'Uomo Vogue editor Giovanna Battaglia. Coveted invitations also went out to Dallas socials and Chanel devotees Cindy and Howard Rachofsky, Todd Fiscus and Ceron, Nancy Rogers, Sue Gragg, Nasiba Adilova, Neva Hall, Amber Venz, Jessica Nowitzki, Anna-Sophia van Zweden, and Mikal Dillard, as well as Diane Lokey Farb, and Becca Cason Thrash from Houston. Neiman Marcus top brass were there: Karen Katz, Jim Gold and Ken Downing, plus Linda Fargo from sister store Bergdorf Goodman. Perhaps the most popular guest, though, was Michel the mechanized bull, positioned so that everyone could see which courageous souls (among them, model Stella Tennant) attempted an eight-second ride. In full disclosure, I found myself among this group, sharing bull-riding tips from the movie 8 Seconds with ravishing model duo Juliana Schurig and Grace Mahary. Clearly Lane Frost knows a thing or two, as neither they nor I were bucked off. What could possibly follow up a ride on the Métiers bull? Dancing, of course! The hip tones of London electronic elites Hot Chip lured models Soo Joo Park, Sung Hee Kim, Chiharu Okunugi, and Kiko Mizuhara, some of whom still sported their immaculate maquillage from the show, including prominent gold warpaint high on the cheekbones, as done by Peter Philips. Chanel, the consummate hostess, sent me off into the frigid night not only with a case of five luscious shades of the house's famed nail lacquer, but also with a newfound admiration of the atelier, which expertly ensures that beauty (along with the crafts and skills necessary for its propagation) and creativity continue to burn bright for all to see. As music man Michel Gaubert hashtagged the affair, #itsdallasbaby — and, indeed, it was Dallas, but done only as Chanel could. Monsieur Lagerfeld et Chanel, je vous remercie. "I ABSOLUTELY LOVED THAT THE LOCATION OF CHANEL'S MÉTIERS D'ART SHOW WAS IN DALLAS THIS YEAR. IT WAS SUCH AN ADVENTURE TO VISIT THIS FAMOUS AMERICAN CITY AND SEE THE SHOW AT THE STATE FAIRGROUNDS. I'M CERTAIN NOW THE TREND FOR COWBOY HATS, BOOTS AND FRINGE WILL BE PREVALENT THROUGHOUT MANY FASHION HOUSES. BESIDES THE SHOW ITSELF, I WAS SO IMPRESSED WITH DALLAS — ESPECIALLY THE HOLIDAY DECORATIONS ON PEOPLE'S LAWNS! I GUESS IT'S TRUE WHAT THEY SAY: "EVERYTHING IS BIGGER IN TEXAS!" — Miroslava Duma Et Puis ... Neiman Marcus' High-Noon Honors for Karl T he only thing fashionables love more than a late night is an early morning — it's a valid excuse to don dark glasses, no questions asked. Such was the throng that convened the following day at Neiman Marcus Downtown for the presentation of the Distinguished Service in the Field of Fashion award to The Kaiser, at the hands of Neiman Marcus Group CEO Karen Katz and Vogue editor in chief Anna Wintour. The frenzied affair saw Chanel loyalists including Marjorie Harvey (wife of comic Steve), Gene Jones and Elaine Agather snugly poised on black Chiavari chairs as Monsieur received the award's graceful statuette and offered remarks to a rapt audience. (The number of couture frocks in attendance was dizzying.) Hosting the ensuing lunch were Neiman Marcus Group president Jim Gold, Bergdorf Goodman senior VP Linda Fargo, and NM fashion director and senior VP of stores Ken Downing. The event saw the reimagining of the ladies shoe department as a Parisian-inspired salon. Chère Madame Wyatt once again carried the day and was seated to Karl's left, while Madame Wintour sat to his right. The group contemplated lunch, amused at the thought that simply because it was noon they might consider consuming real food; a soupçon of fashion familiarity substantiates that such repasts are more about savoring glorious gossip. Àpres lunch, Karl opted to visit the Chanel boutique on the first level, thrilling the normally stoic sales associates. Afterwards, it was back to work for all, which for some meant the backseat of a chauffeured Bentley, while for others, ruling vast fashion empires. Cheering on The Kaiser: Kelli Ford, Gene Jones, Claire Emanuelson, Mary Clare Finney, Diane Lokey Farb, Ingrid Sischy, Geraldine Chaplin, and directrice du studio Chanel Virginie Viard. Karl Lagerfeld accepts his award. Mary Clare Finney Kelli Ford Marjorie Harvey Caroline de Maigret Jim Gold Ken Downing Angela Dotson André Leon Talley Diane Lokey Farb Waiting for Karl: Karen Katz Anna Wintour arriving Amanda Harlech Michael Flores Nancy Rogers Lagerfeld's regalia Gene Jones Front row at the Neiman's award luncheon: Geraldine Chaplin, Lynn Wyatt, André Leon Talley "MY FAVORITE MÉTIERS MEMORY? A QUIET MOMENT WITH KARL LAGERFELD AFTER THE AWARDS LUNCHEON. CURIOUS ABOUT THE WARDROBE FOR THE MOVIE, KARL SHARED [THAT] ALL OF THE CLOTHES WERE ORIGINAL AND FROM THE CHANEL ARCHIVES. 'I WANTED IT TO BE AS REAL AS POSSIBLE,' HE TOLD ME. 'I DID MORE JEWELRY TO ACCESSORIZE, TO MAKE IT INTERESTING, BUT THE CLOTHES WERE ALL OF THE TIME.' I ALWAYS LIKE AN INSIDER CONVERSATION WITH THE WORLD'S PREMIER INSIDER!" — Ken Downing PHOTOGRAPHY STEPHEN KARLISCH FOR NEIMAN MARCUS.

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