PaperCity Magazine

February 2014 - Dallas

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I n keeping with the cinematic quality of the two days, Chanel's Dallas arrival was a double feature. Firstly, the house's 2014 Métiers d'Art runway show, the 11th to date, is a showcase for the workmanship of the 11 artisanal companies owned and nurtured through Chanel subsidiary Paraffection — lauded workrooms such as Lesage and Lemarié. Second, it was an opportunity for Neiman Marcus to celebrate Chanel's storied and vital relationship with the Dallas-based retailer, which hearkens back to 1954, when Stanley Marcus was one of the sole supporters that relaunched Coco's namesake fashion house after WWII. In the ensuing years, Chanel's work would prove so remarkable — and popular — that in 1957, Marcus invited Mademoiselle Chanel herself to Dallas, to honor her with the award for Distinguished Service in the Field of Fashion. In commemoration, Anna Wintour presented Karl Lagerfeld with the same award the day following the Métiers show, at Neiman Marcus Downtown Dallas, proving that while times may change, Chanel remains irresistible. In preparation for the festivities, the PaperCity équipe convened in our hotel's bar. After all, we figured, the only thing colder than the freezing temperatures (which Dallas was at that moment experiencing) are the stares of the fashion-world elite; we hoped a glass or two might reinforce us. Deux champagne coupes later, we hit the road, care of technological dear heart Uber. Music duties fell to me, so I selected Paris-based techno duo SomethingALaMode's RondoParisian, featuring Monsieur Lagerfeld himself, on repeat. At Fair Park, we were astonished to encounter a 1950s drive- in. Punctuating the C of frocks and quilted 2.55 bags were gleaming vintage convertibles — 74 in all. Framing this remarkable scene was a neon sign proclaiming "Paris Dallas Drive-In." To the right of the entrance stood the drive-in's marquee, which detailed the 7 pm premiere of The Return — a film written and directed by Lagerfeld that examines Gabrielle Chanel's trying return to fashion. Charming carhops in vintage uniforms proffered ice-cold Coca-Cola in glass bottles, drawn from retro crates. Other libations were served in Styrofoam cups — never could I have imagined such a smart set sipping cherry limeades through straws. Fabulous folks invited from near and far abounded. Marjorie Gubelmann, New York socialite cum sought-after Manhattan DJ (Mad Marj, anyone?), was the first personage I spied. I trotted over to express my borderline obsession with her glamorous life. More sigh-tings abounded, from Vogue European editor-at-large Hamish Bowles (in lilac bow tie and matching silk scarf) to Derek Blasberg (best friend to swans the world over), and Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele, the incomparable French stylist. Then, suddenly, to my right, was Monsieur Lagerfeld, chatting with a group of of-the-moment close friends. And what does one do when one is a matter of mètres from The Kaiser? Follow him! And so I did, as he led the way to fashion's Holy Grail: Anna Wintour (sporting bob, Chanel sunglasses and a sumptuous fur coat over one of the transcendent Chanel paint-dab frocks shown in Paris just weeks earlier) and André Leon Talley (in a resplendent gold-lamé caftan, with tuxedo shirt and luscious black bow tie peeping out at the throat and side slits revealing a billowing black trouser, which met a tuxedo slipper — custom-made, I imagine, by his dear friend Manolo Blahnik). They spoke for a few moments before moseying over to a vintage '50s noir Cadillac convertible. André sat shotgun, while Anna and Karl opted for the back seat. A masterful photo op? Perhaps. Soon André grew tired of it all, pulled out his iPhone and began tapping away, possibly reporting back to friends Lee Radziwill or Jennifer Hudson. Anna and Karl engaged in an amusing chat and gave the photographers exactly what they wanted. The lights dimmed. Darling Geraldine Chaplin, daughter of the singular Charlie, was superb as Coco Chanel. The entire affair made me pine for my own rue Cambon salon, with chocolate suede sofa and matching quilted pillows, where I could host dinner parties for beyond-chic editors and luminaries such as Bettina Ballard (played here by Lady Amanda Harlech). As the 25-minute film ended, the lights came up, and en masse we made our way across the Esplanade Fountain to the building née Texas-sized barn where the défilé was staged. The bridge was lit on either side by a dizzying number of tea lights. And should any lady or gent need assistance up the steps into the barn, brawny boys in chambray shirts, jeans and black felt cowboy hats waited to assist. (Whether in need or not, one jumped at the opportunity, I assure you.) Once inside, I found myself rubbing elbows with W magazine editor in chief Stefano Tonchi, who hurried up the stairs with a Marlboro Light dangling from his lips. As I ascended, the spectacular scheme SETH VAUGHAN DONS HIS LUCCHESES AND DOES A PARISIAN PIROUETTE. PHOTOGRAPHY OLIVIER SAILLANT, ANNE COMBAZ. Chanel's Texas Tour de Force Monsieur Lagerfeld and Chanel Métiers d'Art in a Nonstop Night of Fashion and Frolic FEBRUARY | PAGE 10 | 2014 I'D BE LYING IF I SAID I WISH YOU'D BEEN THERE … BECAUSE IN ALL SINCERITY, I DON'T. I HAVE NO INTEREST IN ALTERING A SINGLE ASPECT OF THAT UNERRING, PERFECT NIGHT WHEN KARL AND CHANEL CAME TO DALLAS — OR, SHOULD I SAY, TOOK OVER DALLAS. #ParisDallas #ItsDallasBaby #ChanelDallas Miroslava Duma Jessica Joffe Nasiba Adilova Zoë Kravitz Geraldine Chaplin Lauren Hutton Becca Cason Thrash Karl Lagerfeld Linda Gray Lynn Wyatt China Chow Supermodel stampede Karl Lagerfeld's walk of fame Alexa Chung Anna Mouglalis Lily Collins Kristen Stewart Jamie Bochert Laura Love Atlanta de Cadenet Dakota Fanning Giovanna Battaglia Poppy Delevingne

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