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THE SEA H arwood district's newest ristorante, Dolce Riviera, calls to mind a Portofino life: blonde bombshells and bronzed gents fresh from an afternoon cruise, tables covered with Negronis, and platters of fresh sea fare. At Dolce, white-and-blue-checkered ta- blecloths drape the indoor tables, and glamorous Italian vignettes dot the walls (i.e., Audrey Hepburn holding tight to Gregory Peck as they zip through the city in Roman Holiday). On the patio, palm trees surround wooden tables and chairs with plush white cushions in an urban oasis, while ocean-blue shutters above the marbled bar slide open to bring the outdoors in. The authentic Italian menu features flavor-packed fish, meat, and house- and handmade pasta from executive chef Christian Sbordi, who has commanded the kitchens at Harry's Bar in London and New York City's Rain- bow Room. Standouts: sesame-crusted tuna loin atop caponata, drizzled with Saba wine and basil oil; strangozzi di mare (spaghetti with shrimp, calamari, mussels, and clams); and pan-seared wild salmon fillet with Pantelleria ca- pers, red-grape tomatoes, Gaeta olives, sautéed spinach, and potato purée in white-wine sauce. Take your entourage. Dolce Riviera, 2950 N. Harwood St., 469.458.6623, dolceriviera.com. 92 BY LINDEN WILSON TODAY'S RESTAURANT BEYOND Tonne al sesamo KEVIN MARPLE IMANI CHET LYTLE