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76 T his month marks the much-anticipated return of beloved French chef Bruno Davaillon, who crushed hearts when he departed his longtime post as executive chef at Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek two years ago. Unaware of his next move for several months (and wondering whether he'd even opt to remain in Dallas), we waited nervously until the Michelin-starred chef revealed that he would indeed stay — and not only stay, but command the kitchen at his own restaurant, Bullion. Bullion is within the newly renovated 17-story 400 Record tower downtown. Known as the Belo Building prior to its handsome makeover, 400 Record is a project developed by City Electric Supply president and CEO Thomas Hartland-Mackie and his family, who bought the office building in 2014, revamping it head-to-toe. There's new conference spaces, a fitness center, and walls of modern art by Richard Patterson, Dan Colen, Doug Aitken, Alex Israel, and Daniel Arsham. T h e r e s t a u r a n t moniker was inspired by bullire, the Latin verb "to boil," but Bullion's honeycomb- pattern exterior suggests gold bullion bricks. London- and New York-based Martin Brudnizki Design Studio (London restaurant The Wigmore, New York's The Beekman hotel, and Soho Beach House in Miami) designed the interiors, a fusion of modern and mid-century glamour with a brasserie vibe. The dining room seats 98, and there's a 36-seat bar and lounge, and a 40-square-foot space within the restaurant dedicated to growing edible plants and herbs from Dallas Urban Farms. "I like having fresh herbs and salad all year long," Davaillon says. For the menu, he plans refined French comfort food with a lighter, contemporary touch. "Revisiting the classics is always fun. I want to keep the authenticity of a dish," he says. Highlights are the escargot beignets with green garlic aioli; salmon rillettes with horseradish and warm scallion bread; braised rabbit torte; potted duck confit and foie gras with passion-fruit gelée and grilled sourdough; and Dover sole meunière with confit potato and warm sauce gribiche. For those who worshipped his cuisine at the Mansion, fret not: "The technique and foundation will be the same," he says. Bullion, 400 S. Record St., 972.698.4250, bullionrestaurant.com. THE MIDAS TOUCH BY LINDEN WILSON PHOTOGRAPHY CHRIS PLAVIDAL BRUNO DAVAILLON'S GLITTERING NEW BULLION RESTAURANT The new Bullion restaurant glows.