PaperCity Magazine

December 2012 - Houston

Issue link: http://papercitymagazine.uberflip.com/i/98152

Contents of this Issue

Navigation

Page 26 of 75

with fresh mozzarella and Nosh���s own serranolaced pizza sauce. While the owner and chef favor turning the heat up in the dishes they themselves consume, you can modulate each as you wish ��� toning down, for example, the angry shrimp dish so it���s just a tad disturbed. Be sure to let them know prior to plating how high your spice tolerance goes. And be sure to complement your meal with wine or a champagne-based cocktail by bar manager Jason Le Bove. 3963 Kirby Dr., 713.522.6674; noshbistro.com. restaurant/bar/underground lounge to be revealed. The space is huge (40,000 square feet, give or take), inside the former Boy Scouts building (dubbed Scouts Square) in a mixed-use development at 1911 Bagby Street. We���re dying to see how W Hotel design alum Carlos Castropareds will fashion the multilevel interiors ��� and to taste the offerings by chef Pedro Silva (an alum of Ruggles Grill at Saks). Volare. Cara Cox���s New York���style pizza joint, housed in a tiny space in the same center as the famed Hot Bagel Shop (2017 S. Shepherd Drive), will start shoveling pizzas out of its brick oven later this month. (Crostini, soups, salads and paninis will also grace the menu.) Local sommelier Antonio Gianola, who has quite the following, will select the vino and craft beers, while Ara Malekian will stand over the stove. Start the queue early to grab a seat inside or out, or just dash in and take your meal to go. Brasserie 19 LUCILLE���S It���s hard not to root for earnest chef Chris Rebecca O���Brien Williams. He was schooled at his grandmother���s Roots Juice Bar knee before his formal culinary education at Le Cordon Bleu���s Austin outpost exposed him to Triniti the tenets of classic cuisine ��� but everything fell into place for Williams when he learned of his great-grandma���s cooking legacy. The story goes that Lucille Bishop Smith made barbecue and chili biscuits her claim to cooking fame and, in so doing, determined when and where Williams would hang his shingle: a modest museum-area turn-of-the-century house that he named, of course, Lucille���s. While you will indeed ���nd Bishop Smith���s chili biscuits on the menu ($7), we���ll be back again for Williams��� own shrimp and grits: creamy stone-mill grits mingled with a complex sherry-spiked tomato broth with andouille sausage ($20). And before watermelon is no more (or perhaps next summer), be sure to order his refreshing watermelon salad mixed with baby arugula, red onions, feta and crushed pistachios ��� a crisp, wonderful salad I could eat every week ($12). Next time, I���ll try the yard bird (game hen) with saut��ed greens, peppers and hoppin��� john ($18) or the whole ���sh topped with basil succotash and greens --- and watch this Southern soul take on some more dishes close to his heart. 5512 La Branch St., 713.568.2505; lucilleshouston.com. STILL SIMMERING: OPENINGS THAT STILL HAVE US CHATTERING FAVORITE HAUNTS: COMPELLING PLACES THAT DRAW US BACK MONTH AFTER MONTH Sean Marshall, Southside Espresso SIMMERING PEOPLE, PLACES AND FOOD THINGS Volare TWO ENERGETIC NEW SPOTS WE FELL IN LOVE WITH SOUTHSIDE ESPRESSO Southside Espresso, 904-C Westheimer; no phone (how chic); southsidespresso.com The craft of fusion beans is here. Southside Espresso is the place where baristas come to get their caffeine ���x, where each drink is beautifully crafted and topped with a thick layer of foam. Overseen by head barista Sean Marshall, all the little details of the art of coffee-making matter; the syrups are made in-house, and the asides such as pastries, plus Zhi tea from Austin, heighten the experience. Once you take that ���rst sip, you���ll be hooked. Open 7 am till midnight. Michelle Avina Roost Uchi ROOTS JUICE BAR Southside Espresso Roots Juice, 507 Westheimer Road, 713.524.1000; rootsjuicehouston.com Finally! A fast, casual juice bar and cafe that delivers fresh, nutrient-packed elixirs to enliven and empower you, which serves as both a quick grab-and-go and a new gathering place in the Montrose area. Try the free yoga class on Thursdays at 7:30 am, followed by a $5 happy-hour juice tasting. The interior promotes sustainability ��� think repurposed and reclaimed wood tables, as well as vintage chairs. Health enthusiast and fellow vegan Rebecca O���Brien manages day-to-day operations and has strong ties with the local-farmer���s-market circuit ��� relationships she ���rst forged as a member of the market management team for Urban Harvest. The juice bar serves a wide variety of juices including Alchemy, Green Age Dreams (my personal favorite), Beet It and Kale Take, but the seasonal menu changes regularly. Roots also offers smoothies, light vegan, vegetarian and glutenfree fare as well as raw, gluten-free, vegan items. And for those who can���t make it during the week, drop in for Saturday or Sunday brunch. Michelle Avi��a HOT IN THE KITCHEN Oxheart variety of artisan baked breads) served as an appetizer with ���avored butters, spreads and cheeses. and stemware. organic), from fruits and vegetables to meats. Today it���s not just about procuring regional foodstuffs; it���s about giving menu credit to the farmers who raised the animals and tended the crops. COMING ��� ANY MOMENT (OR SO WE���RE TOLD) Evo: David Guerrero���s soon-to-open Peruvian restaurant in the Montrose (a stone���s throw from Da Marco) has been plagued by construction delays. But there���s good news: You can cool your Jimmy Choos while you wait at Guerrero���s sister eatery, Alma (1275 Eldridge Parkway), where they offer fare that blends his Peruvian homeland���s cuisines with tastes hailing from China, Africa, Italy, Japan and Spain. At press time, we were told to look for a January 2013 opening for Evo. Chef Ryan Hildebrande, who opened Triniti earlier this year, is working on his next concept, due to debut Fall 2013. MC2 architects are planning to tear down the former Ruggles Grill in the Montrose on Westheimer and build Brande, set in a contemporary building with a rustic farmhouse vibe where Hildebrande will bake breads, pastries, craft charcuterie and dry-age his own meats. The American fare��� focused eatery will have a decidedly masculine edge, with chef de cuisine Dax McAnear manning the range ��� Grace���s, a Johnny Carrabba concept based on his grandmother Grace���s Italian-style home cooking, debuts in 2013 on Kirby Drive, a block from his Carrabba���s ��� Word is that Lee Ellis, Carl Eaves and Lance Fegan (Liberty Kitchen, BRC, Petite Sweets) are taking over the location of Vida, the ill-named ���sexy Tex-Mex��� joint on San Felipe. Everything from concept to food to decor will be overhauled to create another Liberty Kitchen and Oysterette. Ellis describes it as an ���East Coast seafood house meets River Oaks,��� as the trio plans to step up their game to suit the neighborhood. Stay tuned for more details. who procure an array of bitters (or, better yet, make their own, along with infused syrups and spirits). It���s all about tweaking those old-school classics. with lower GI issues. Neera Patidar, Nosh Roots Juices, raw desert (Evo, Alma, Latin Bites, etc.). Eatsie Boys Caf��: The self-proclaimed Eatsie Boys are moving on up from their roaming food truck (or sometimes stationary one parked at Agora Coffee House) to their own brick-andmortar site in the former Montrose digs of Kraftsman Baking, 4100 Montrose Boulevard. We���re waiting with bated breath for their delectable-sounding sandwiches such as Frank the Pretzel, a pretzel bun stuffed with homemade chicken poblano sausage, saut��ed onions and mustard ($6), or the No Sleep Til Philly, a high-style cheesesteak made with rib eye then downplayed with homemade Cheez Whiz ($8). And don���t get me started on the inspired ice cream, including the curiously named In 3���s Vietnamese Coffee and Peach Cobbler in Effect. C���mon boys. Open, open, open! Mr. Peeples Seafood + Steaks: Reps are telling us we���ll have to wait until later this month for this high-designed midtown leads to a lease. (See the Eatsie Boys.) global spin. ��toile Cuisine et Bar A portrait at Lucille���s someone else call you a ���celebrity.��� To refer to yourself as one is terribly immodest, don���t you think? Everyone���s a food critic and has a Twitter following. And apparently we���re simply dying to see photos of their last meal. Really?

Articles in this issue

Links on this page

Archives of this issue

view archives of PaperCity Magazine - December 2012 - Houston