Issue link: http://papercitymagazine.uberflip.com/i/1495454
Fashion Notes By Steven Hempel VERY BURBERRY O n the heels of a rebrand and new logo, recently hired creative director Daniel Lee continues to expound on what it means to be Burberry while defining the visual language of the British heritage brand through an in-depth look at its beginnings in the mid-19th century. To this rebirth, Assouline has released Burberry, a slipcovered tome that chronicles the history of the brand written by noted fashion journalist, author, and critic Alexander Fury with foreword by brand SHAPE SHIFTER W hat started with Loewe's Fall/ Wi n t e r 2 0 2 3 men's collection continues with t h e w o m e n 's : a trend toward minimalism. This is a brand focused on reductionism through the silhouette, texture, and materials. To complement creative director Jonathan Anderson's vision for the collection, Italian artist Lara Favaretto created work that explores the fragile space between permanence and ruin. For the show, she developed a new confetti cube installation — her largest to date — using 21 cubes and approximately 10 tons of confetti to build a simple, yet layered universe to coexist with Loewe's fashions. The cubes, whose vibrant colors are derived from a single still photograph (in this case, Ari Aster's 2019 film Midsommar) are made from solid confetti without glue or adhesive — just the work of compression by teams of workers. As the show continues, the sculptures slowly give way to the forces of gravity, their form changing subtly throughout. As each show concludes, the confetti is gathered and reused for future installations. curator Carly Eck. Clad in Burberry's distinctive trench and signature check, the book's pages take a trip from the humble beginnings by Thomas Burberry in 1856 to the cultural and fashion icon that it's become today. $195, at the B u r b e r r y b o u t i q u e , assouline.com. Lara Favaretto 26