PaperCity Magazine

PaperCity Dallas July August 2023

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THE SUMMER ART PILGRIMAGE If wanderlust has struck, might we suggest one of the most American of adventures: a summer road trip. We've mapped out six must-see off-the-grid art destinations, cities, or hamlets within a day's drive of Dallas. So, gas up, enlist a friend or two, and hit your ignition button. We suggest you do as Frost did and take the road less traveled. MARFA — 7 hours, 30 minutes The Chinati Foundation, Judd Foundation, Ballroom Marfa Donald Judd (1928 – 1994) remains one of the most significant artists of the 20th century. The remote Trans- Pecos outpost of Marfa sprawls across a decommissioned 1919-1920 army base, which Judd transformed into the world's most improbable, yet ultimate art town. As such, Marfa and its two Judd-focused foundations continue to lure collectors, curators, writers, and cultural cognoscenti. At The Chinati Foundation, founded 1987, Judd's own rigorous works join commissions by other artists dedicated to mirroring his staunch minimalist aesthetic, with installations by Carl Andre, Dan Flavin, Roni Horn, Ilya Kabakov, Richard Long, Robert Irwin, and Claes Oldenburg and Coosje van Bruggen deployed in buildings and grounds of the former Fort D.A. Russell. The Judd Foundation, Marfa locale founded 1994, preserves his former architecture and art studios, which occupy downtown buildings, a princely surfeit of space in an exquisitely beautiful and isolated pilgrimage site. Judd's residence, La Mansana de Chinati/The Block, is an adobe wall-enclosed city block consisting of living space, a quartermaster's office, hangars displaying work, his 13,000-volume library, and an expansive courtyard. chinati.org, juddfoundation.org. Another reason to voyage to West Texas is Ballroom Marfa, the nonprofit that commissioned Elmgreen + Dragset's 2005 Prada Marfa. Visit Ballroom Marfa's mystical installment of a more recent public art piece, 2018's stone circle by Haroon Mirza. ballroommarfa.org. (continued) By Catherine D. Anspon, Billy Fong, and Alison Medley ALBANY, TEXAS — 2 hours, 30 minutes The Old Jail Art Center Albany is likely the smallest city on our list, but it's nonetheless home to an arts organization with an impressive roster of past exhibitions. It was indeed the first permanent jail built in Shackelford County, which opened in 1878 and was abandoned in 1929 for a new jail around the corner. The Old Jail Art Center, an art-world insider destination, debuted as a shrine for culture in 1980. On view is "Cheyenne Ledger Drawings: Stories of Warrior Artists" (through August 26), with works by Cheyenne artists who were part of the forced assimilation project (which included 72 prisoners of war — Cheyenne, Kiowa, Comanche, Caddo, and Arapaho warriors) following the Red River War in 1875. It's a poignant narrative from a dark chapter of American history t h a t m u s t b e brought forward. The 52 deeply personal works depicting these Native Americans' lives before and a f t e r c a p t i v i t y were drawn with colored pencils on Army ledger paper. ROAD TRIPPING: Clockwise from top: Dan Flavin's Untitled (Marfa project), 1996, at The Chinati Foundation, Marfa, Texas. Bear's Heart's Warrior Society, 1875-1878, at The Old Jail Art Center, Albany, Texas. John Chamberlain's 22 variously titled works in painted and chromium-plated steel, 1972-1982, at The Chinati Foundation. PHOTO BY DOUGLAS TUCK. COURTESY THE CHINATI FOUNDATION Donald Judd's 15 untitled works in concrete, 1980-1984, at The Chinati Foundation, Marfa PHOTO BY FLORIAN HOLZHERR COURTESY THE CHINATI FOUNDATION PHOTO BY FLORIAN HOLZHERR COURTESY THE CHINATI FOUNDATION THE ARTHUR AND SHIFRA SILBERMAN COLLECTION, NATIONAL COWBOY & WESTERN HERITAGE MUSEUM 26

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