Issue link: http://papercitymagazine.uberflip.com/i/1544028
C hef Ford Fry has us feeling nostalgic for old-fashioned, long-shuttered r e s t a u r a n t s such as The Stables and one of his favorite haunts, Hoffbrau Steak & Grill House. You know the sort: straightforward neighborhood eateries with uncomplicated menus we all love to frequent. Fry is a talented restaurateur who's made a reputation with compelling, layered restaurants across the South (Atlanta, Nashville, and Houston's own La Lucha, State of Grace, and Little Rey). For his latest concept, he tapped into reverie for his happy childhood in Houston, and the result is Star Rover — a vintage pastiche of modestly priced steakhouses of the past. "I think it's simply the ease and familiarity of those places that draws me in," Fry says. "We tried to create an updated experience of that. The food and drinks should be better than they were back in the day, but still feel really good. The music should feel just right, too. That's what we're aiming for." This is the second version of Fry's concept, which is named for Jack London's 1915 science fiction novel; the first is Star Rover Sound in Nashville, which unlike Houston has an acoustic sound stage and a rotating list of musicians. Here in the Heights, Star Rover has taken over the space of former Fry concept Superica, next door to his popular vintage-inspired eatery La Lucha. The cool, kitsch vintage theme carries through the decor, with a bottle-green-painted brick wall, faded portraiture, taxidermy birds in flight, and tables cloaked in red- and-white-checked cloths, lit by sconces, candles, and what were once likely grandmother's chandeliers, casting a subtle glow. With beef prices at an all-time high, Fry has opted to serve USDA Upper 2/3 Choice steaks — a grade that sits at the top tier of USDA Choice. And there's no upcharge for sides. Order a 12-ounce ribeye ($62.95), six-ounce filet ($53.95), or perhaps a modest 10-ounce chopped steak ($29.95), and a plate of soft, warm milk rolls brushed with melted butter and sea salt arrives, as well as a generously sized crisp iceberg salad scattered with bacon bits and chunks of blue cheese, tossed with the kitchen's own Green Goddess dressing. And did we mention the basket of bottomless onion rings and wedge potato fries that descends upon the table as your entrées are served. Beef options aside, dive into the CFC (chicken fried chicken) napped in bacon-studded white gravy ($35.95) or a seven-ounce blackened redfish dressed with a demi-glaze and green herb butter ($42.95). Make any land-raised entree a surf-and-turf meal by adding a crab cake or butterflied lobster tail (market price). Coupled with it all, you'll find steak-friendly wine varietals and classic cocktails that never go out of style, from a stiff Manhattan to a Long Island iced tea made fancy with a splash of Mexican Coke. And, while you might pull away from the table with your belt loosened a notch or two, don't leave without dessert: wedges of house-made apple, chocolate chess, coconut, or buttermilk pie, served warm— and à la mode if you like (I like) with vanilla soft-serve ice cream. Star Rover, 1801 North Shepherd Dr., starroverhtx.com. It's a Steak Out By Laurann Claridge Chef Ford Fry's New Star Rover From top: Star Rover, chef Ford Fry's new restaurant, serves USDA Upper 2/3 Choice steaks. The interior of Star Rover, with bottle-green-painted brick wall. 100