PaperCity Magazine

September 2014 - Houston

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SEPTEMBER | PAGE 38 | 2014 Jean-Michel Basquiat's Philistines, 1982 E ach year or two, a designer magically appears and captures the imagination of editors, retailers and laypeople alike. For now, Delpozo is that label. The designer behind the unusual name is Josep Font, who was handed the reins of the 40-year-old Madrid- based fashion house Delpozo (formerly known as Jesús del Pozo) in 2012. We're captivated by Font's romantic and feminine silhouettes that boast exaggerated volume, trompe l'oeil effects, scalloped 3-D pleats and unusual color combinations. Now, just weeks away from presenting his second spring collection for Delpozo at New York Fashion Week, we do a little investigative work on this mastermind. The backstory: Having studied architecture and fashion design in Spain, Josep Font began his career in Paris, where he launched his prêt-à-porter label, showing at Paris Fashion week for four seasons. In 2007, the Fédération Française de la Couture invited Font to present his collection at Haute Couture Week. YOUR GOAL WHEN YOU JOINED DELPOZO. I wanted to create a brand that did not yet exist in the fashion realm, targeting a modern woman with a true understanding of craftsmanship. A fresh vision of couture techniques makes Delpozo what it is: feminine silhouettes, delicate embroideries, organic draping and architectural patterns. Even though we are based in Madrid, we have been a global brand since day one. SPANISH INQUISITION The INSPIRATIONS. Inspiration can come through a conversation or in the form of an idea or concept. Like a women's beauty, her personality, how she defines and portrays herself. It is all very interesting to me. Literature inspires me; I love to read several books at a time. Art — when I travel, I try to make time to visit a museum, as you never know what will inspire you for the next season. I enjoy going to the ballet; last May, I was able to attend the New York Ballet, and it was magnificent. Fashion editor Megan Pruitt Winder e-chats with Josep Font, the creative genius behind the stunningly successful revival of heritage Spanish label Delpozo. Delpozo creative director Josep Font Jean Seberg Delpozo Fall 2014 Delpozo Fall 2014 STYLE ICON. Jean Seberg. WHY THE CHANGE TO NEW YORK FASHION WEEK? NYFW is the window to the world, and when Delpozo was ready for its international relaunch two years ago, there was no doubt that New York was the city to show our collection. THE DELPOZO FEMME … … is confident, and she attracts attention unintentionally. She searches for pieces that enhance her personality more than her own beauty. She could be an executive or an artist; her profession does not define her, and she is a global woman with a timeless elegance. The key to elegance is to be natural and discreet. GREATEST SATISFACTION? To see the brand, which we have been putting so much effort and work into, start to establish itself in the fashion-sphere. What fulfills me is when I see women wearing Delpozo. Whether it's an actress or an anonymous woman in the street, it's a feeling I cannot describe. Much more than satisfaction, it's exhilaration. WHAT CAN WE EXPECT FROM YOUR SPRING/ SUMMER 2015 COLLECTION? It will be our second Spring/Summer collection in New York, and it's going to be very powerful. Each collection is different, but in the end, each season Delpozo combines bold colors with pastels, featherweight fabrics with others that have more body and structure. There isn't a way to define our next show without giving away too much. For now, one word: perception. FAVORITES: Flower. Sunflowers. Destination. L'Empordà, Costa Brava, Spain. Object. Anything from the '40s or '50s. Artist. Jean-Michel Basquiat. Bag. Maison Martin Margiela. Museum. American Museum of Natural History, New York. Wardrobe staple. Jeans and navy shirt. Beauty essential. Natura Bissé Diamond Gel. Must-read. Lolito by Ben Brooks. Delpozo Fall 2014 Delpozo is available at Forty Five Ten, PREQUEL. I have a masters in art history and began my career in NY at Sotheby's in the Impressionist department, then worked in the Department of Contemporary Art. I returned to gemology school at BJO in Paris, followed by travels to India, among other places, for inspiration. DESCRIBE THE JOURNEY OF CREATING A COLLECTION. I always find inspiration on my holidays, as well as in everyday life. Nature is a very big part of the brand's DNA, so I am always pushing myself to find creative ways to incorporate it into the collection. Creating several collections per year for two lines is challenging, but I really love what I do, which I think makes the process easier. I love having all of the pieces handmade in Paris — it's not a challenge; it's a choice. ON STAYING TRUE TO YOURSELF WHILE PUSHING TO CREATE NEW DIRECTIONS. I feel it's important to have a distinct brand identity but also be able to challenge myself each collection with new techniques, etc. HOW DOES WORKING IN PARIS INFLUENCE YOU? I love Paris — it's where I'm from, but I also spend a lot of my time in New York, where I have an apartment. Both are such beautiful and creative cities. CAREER HIGH POINTS. Collaborations with Balmain (I designed a handbag called Le Pierre with creative director Olivier Rousteing), Proenza Schouler and Bonpoint. Of course, opening my first boutique in Paris was a huge highlight, as well as launching the Fine Jewelry Collection. I opened my first stateside boutique in New York City, at 265 Lafayette Street in SoHo, last month. DESIGNER'S IT ALL BEGAN WITH HAPPENSTANCE. "SARAH, COLETTE'S DAUGHTER [COLETTE BEING THE PARIS BOUTIQUE], SAW A BRACELET FROM MY COLLECTION ON ONE OF MY FRIENDS, AND IT WAS THE BEGINNING OF EVERYTHING," SAYS JEWELRY DESIGNER AURÉLIE BIDERMANN. THE NEW YORK- AND PARIS-BASED DESIGNER'S BREAKOUT COLLECTION AT COLETTE WAS FOLLOWED BY BARNEYS NEW YORK, BERGDORF GOODMAN, NET-A-PORTER AND, IN HOUSTON, AT THE NEWLY ENSCONCED ANN MASHBURN. STEVE HEMPEL CHATS UP BIDERMANN FOR PAPERCITY, AS SHE OPENS HER NEW YORK SALON — HER FIRST BOUTIQUE STATESIDE. JOURNEY A Aurélie Bidermann 18K Big Apple earrings with rubies and diamonds, $8,290 Below: 18K Scarab cuff with tsavorites, sapphires and diamonds, price upon request KARIM SADLI 18K Nautilus pendant with diamonds, amethysts, tsavorites and multicolor sapphires, $10,985

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