PaperCity Magazine

PaperCity Houston October 2024

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From top: A peek through the scarlet curtains into the bar at Drake's Hollywood. The dining room at Drake's with artist-rendered murals. I t looks like Dallas restaurateur Hunter P o n d , C E O o f Vandelay Hospitality Group, has a soft spot for the storied Old Hollywood look. A time when screen crooners Frank Sinatra and Dean Martin, along with their Rat Pack cronies, could be seen at the best tables in the city, from La Dolce Vita to Chasen's to The Formosa Café. The 37-year-old Pond, with nine restaurant concepts under his belt, seems to have channeled the golden age of Tinseltown with his latest incarnation of Drake's Hollywood, right down to the trademark Hollywood red leather booths. But, as Pond said last year when I interviewed him for a story on his first Houston venture, Hudson House, he was inspired by the ambiance and decor of NYC denizen Graydon Carter's East Coast haunt, The Waverly Inn, and Monkey Bar in New York. There, signature caricature murals adorn the walls (care of artist Edward Sorel). Taking a page from that proverbial sketchbook, Pond has replicated the theme in size and scale at his Drake's Hollywood — albeit not by Sorel, but by local artists. The third outpost of Drake's Hollywood (after the Dallas and West Hollywood locales) is in the former stead of steakhouse Georgia James. Pond purchased the Montrose-area building and, over the last couple of years, completely refashioned it inside and out. Inside the 8,500-square-foot space is a moody, dimly lit space with a polished wood-topped bar, and dining rooms with heavy scarlet drapes, foxed mirrors, and a custom Scottish plaid carpet. Reserve one of the white-clothed tables and peruse the framed vintage black-and- white photos of movie-making icons, or play "Who can guess that celebrity likeness" depicted in the murals. This is arguably Vandelay's most high-profile concept. I've visited both the Dallas and Houston Drake's and can attest to their very s e e - a n d - b e - s e e n DRAKE'S HOLLYWOOD WE GET A KICK OUT OF YOU By Laurann Claridge. Photography Becca Wright. nature, where tables, clustered close, foster an IG-worthy air-kiss atmosphere where diners table-hop and take in the delicious p e o p l e - w a t c h i n g . The vibe — from its campy cartoonish depictions to its I t a l i a n - A m e r i c a n dishes and the half- dozen steak options on its menu — feels like a modern-day take on The Palm. Drake's is open for dinner only. Start with a signature frozen vodka martini, which they've coined the World's Coldest ($20). GM Chris Lampa says that they have some of the most aggressive wine pricing in the city, including a $23 glass of Veuve Clicquot. Executive chef Raphael Rogers' c h i l l e d " n o s h " s t a r t e r s i n c l u d e spicy tuna laid atop a compressed bed of crisp rice, topped with chili mayo and eel sauce ($18), a classic jumbo shrimp cocktail ($22), and steak tartare with the classic accouterments ($24). On the hot side, you'll find a nod to Asian-inspired king crab Rangoon ($18) and cauliflower "dynamite," lightly fried and enrobed in a sweet-and- spicy sauce ($16). The charred cracker- crust pizzas include four options, including Frank's, with a blend of mozzarella, aged cheddar, and provolone over ZaZa sauce (a spicy vodka sauce) ($25 - $29). While borrowing a page from Vandelay's Anchor Sushi Bar menu, you'll find four sushi options, including the Ginger Rogers roll with Hamachi, avocado, and bluefin tuna dressed with a ginger-spiked vinaigrette ($22) and the spicy Sinatra roll with shrimp tempura and spicy tuna drizzled with 38

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