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action. We started with the shellfish tower consisting of steamed lobster t a i l s , p o a c h e d shrimp, East Coast oysters, and snow- crab claws, paired with unique house sauces. My friend indulged in the 16-ounce prime rib- eye, and I had the short rib caramelle — candy-shaped pasta filled with a tasty short-rib ragu and served atop au jus. My dish was a nod to foodies, with both technical and tasteful notes. At Emilia's elevated dining room, The Blue Room, the menu always includes a fresh fish of the day, filleted tableside; caviar service (in my book, whenever on vacation, every meal should include this); and reserve wines and vintage champagne. Set aside at least two hours to appreciate this experience. Canyon Ranch Fort Worth Wellness Club + Spa John Goff's Crescent Real Estate purchased Canyon Ranch in 2017 and has taken it into a new chapter, with clubs accessible to both locals and those traveling who expect the same level of service and amenities at all locations. The Fort Worth outpost within The Crescent Hotel is 26,000 square feet and offers state-of-the-art fitness equipment, with dozens of group fitness classes per week. There's also a salon (for a men's cut or quick blowout sandwiched between your workout and your luncheon at one of the nearby country clubs) and full-service spa treatment rooms, steam rooms, showers, and lounge area. Ralph's It's the dawn of a new era. There was a time when "chic and cool" meant standoffish and sullen in an affected way. We all have stories of walking into an Ian Schrager property and gaining entry to the elevator (yes, there were often velvet ropes), where we'd find ourselves amongst leggy models who hadn't eaten a full meal since the Bush (and I mean the 41st not 43rd) White House years, listening to Moby's iconic "Porcelain." We'd realize we were standing next to the sallow DJ just as the doors opened to some hush-hush lounge area — more than likely for members only. Today, the elevator ride to a private club seems like a happier moment, with smiles in abundance. That's how it felt as I made my way to Ralph's on the top floor of The Crescent Hotel. I was greeted by a welcoming hostess in a moodily lit foyer before gaining access to the club — a wide-open space that seems to stretch into the museum district, due to floor-to-ceiling windows that open to a wraparound patio for cocktailing and delicious dishing about who wore what to the rodeo. Since my visit was impromptu, I had not texted my local posse to meet me, but within 15 minutes in the back smoker's corner of the balcony, I had made six new friends. The name Ralph's is a reverential nod to a famed Fort Worthian: grande dame Mary Ralph Lowe, who was known for her largesse (in life and philanthropy and idle pursuits including hostessing and horses), eccentricities, and inimitable style. John Goff had his sights set on the land where the Crescent now sits, which his neighbor, Mary Ralph Lowe, owned. As lore goes, over a beer, Lowe graciously agreed to sell the property for a hotel, but with the stipulation that they name a watering hole after her. As with most private clubs, the members list is secret, and even the number of memberships is unknown, but I suspect it's intentionally intimate to provide bespoke privileges — perhaps an assortment of cattle baron ranchers and oil tycoons, art collectors, and the new influx of West Coast celebrities. On my recent visit, guests were discussing the Steeplechase and Assembly debutante balls, indie film productions, and the upcoming arrival of the Dallas institution Forty Five Ten, slated to open around the corner from The Crescent Hotel this fall. Ralph's design details include further winks to Miz Lowe. The glamorous and sultry room with wafting breezes feels like it might be somewhere in Africa — one of her favorite places. Camels are inscribed on the back of velvet bar stools for a fabulous reason: In 1967, Lowe purchased a camel from the Neiman Marcus catalog and named it Erma Camel to lift the spirits of her mother, Erma Lowe, after the passing of her husband. Rottet Interiors included a local Cowtown vibe via an entrance wall saluting other famous Fort Worthians, including NFL star Davey O'Brien; Kay Kimbell, entrepreneur and benefactor of the Kimbell Art Museum; philanthropist Amon Carter, owner of the Fort Worth Star-Telegram; human rights activist Edna Gladney; I.M. Terrell, head of the first public school for African Americans; Texas army commander Ripley Arnold; and pianist Van Cliburn, founder of his namesake competition. As for cocktails, might I suggest you order either Bad Decisions, inspired by Miz Lowe herself — a drink made for fun nights and bad decisions — or A Damn Fool, which is what her mother called her daughter when she was gifted the camel. After all, isn't every fun night meant to be filled with bad decisions and being called a damn fool. The Blue Room, an elevated dining room at Emilia's. The bar at Ralph's members-only club. JASON DEWEY KIM LEESON 84