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78 THAT'S AMORE C all it the talk of the town: The culinary scene in North Dallas is giving the southern suburbs a run for their stylish money. Case in point: The Italians have staked claim to a piece of Jerry's World with last month's debut of Da Mario at The Star in Frisco. From international hospitality group D.ream (which brought buzzy Mediterranean restaurant Zaytinya to Frisco earlier this year), Da Mario plans to retrain Texas palates with un-Americanized, handcrafted pasta, fine wine, and wood-fired pizza. "Da Mario is what Italian cuisine should be," says executive chef Luigi Iannuario, who crafted the menu with D.ream corporate executive chef Mert Seran. "You won't find lasagna on our menu, but rather dishes that are true to the heritage and indulgence of Italy." Start with Da Mario caprese, a deconstructed version served with heirloom tomatoes, and mozzarella di b u f a l a . T h e Fettuccine Alla F i a m m a C o n Tartufo is a s h o w - s t e a l i n g pasta prepared tableside in a parmesan wheel, flamed, then topped with a shaving of black truffles. (Your diet can wait.) Also prepped on command are cocktails, particularly Negronis, which get their own dedicated bar cart — a chic detail in mahogany and brass, made locally by KS Woodcraft. Per Italian tradition, Da Mario's cellar master, Tahn Eisemann, sourced wines from Italy's myriad regions, from Piedmont to Tuscany. While the menu is old-school Italian, this is no red- checkered-tablecloth joint. Interior design firm Rockwell Group (Nobu Hotel in Miami, TAO Downtown in New York, and the New York Edition hotel) has established an interior with a whiff of Milan's Principe Di Savoia — 1940s-inspired modern Italian lighting, banquettes, and marble-topped bar tables, emerald-tiled walls, and a sleek bar overhang filled with glistening bottles. It's la dolce vita as it should be. Da Mario, 6655 Winning Dr., Frisco, 972.324.3055, d a m a r i o r e s t a u r a n t . com. BY NATALIE GEMPEL. PHOTOGRAPHY KEVIN MARPLE, MANNY RODRIGUEZ. xxxxxxxx Da Mario Da Mario's signature cocktail Charcuterie board