PaperCity Magazine

December 2019- Dallas

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54 NOTES ON BY STEVE HEMPEL FASHION T he documentary Martin Margiela: In His Own Words, profiling one of fashion's most infl uential designers, premiered in November at the DOC NYC fi lm festival. Directed by Reiner Holzemer (Dries, the Dries Van Noten documentary), the film profiles the elusive Margiela as he prepares for the fi rst retrospective of his career at Paris' Palais Galliera. We never see Margiela's face; we see only his hands and hear his voice. The reluctant superstar has made a career out of being seen only through the clothes he creates; early on, he told Pierre Rougier, his former press secretary, that he didn't want to do interviews anymore … and he didn't. But his work as head of his namesake fashion house (which he left in 2009) has burned an indelible mark on the world of fashion. He was always one step ahead of his contemporaries and pushed the boundaries of what a fashion show was and what the brand could be. The film covers the designer's 20 years at the helm of his atelier and is a portrait of two decades of runway shows, culminating with the Spring 2009 20th- anniversary show, which would be his last. A more thorough understanding is crafted through interviews with models, critics, and friends, including Olivier Saillard, Stella Ishii, Pierre Rougier, Carla Sozzani, and Cathy Horyn. The film also takes an in-depth look at 70 crucial pieces, chosen by Margiela, that best represent his trajectory. It also touches, albeit lightly, on his decision to leave the industry — one that is known for its challenges both public and personal. For fans of Margiela, the fi lm offers insight into one of the true creative geniuses of our time. margielainhisownwords. P rada has embarked on a collaboration with sports giant Adidas for a new collection of men's and women's performance footwear, both sides exploring their archives to incorporate new materials and performance technology while retaining the iconic styling for which they're known. Two new styles, destined to be classics, will be released this month. A limited- edition sailing shoe, to be unveiled next year, is named for the Luna Rossa sailing team, established in 1997, which heralded Prada's participation in the America's Cup., PRADA X ADIDAS IN GOOD HANDS (AND VOICE) T he Dior Sessions (Rizzoli) is a sensuous coffee-table book that chronicles the fi rst year of work by Dior men's creative director Kim Jones as seen through the lens of photographer Nikolai von Bismarck. While most know von Bismarck as the longtime partner of model Kate Moss, he is also an accomplished fashion photographer; his collaborative effort with Jones includes more than 100 black-and-white portraits of Kate Moss and daughter Lila Grace Moss, David Beckham, Demi Moore, Eddie Redmayne, Takashi Murakami, and Jude Law. The project began on the eve of Jones' fi rst Dior men's show and chronicles the following 12 months, spanning three continents. The book captures the genesis of Jones' work for Dior while covering subjects with links to Dior's heritage. Proceeds from the book sales support Teenage Cancer Trust, which develops specialized nursing and emotional support services for young people with cancer. Historical side note: Fans of history will recognize the von Bismarck name. Nikolai's great-grandfather, Otto, was the Iron Chancellor of Germany, considered one of the greatest politicians of the 19th century. His removal by Kaiser Wilhelm II is thought by many historians to be a key factor that led to World War I. At booksellers and THE DIOR YEARS

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