PaperCity Magazine

PaperCity Houston May 2023

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Fashion Notes By Steven Hempel S hadows have a certain mystery to them. They can portray a sense of impending danger or the coming of light and hope. Often what we can't see causes as much tension as what we can. For Pierre Hardy, creative director of Hermès jewelry since 2001, shadow, contrast, and light define his 2022 high jewelry collection of 53 unique pieces. For Les Jeux de L' O m b r e , unique settings and a mix of rare and colorful gemstones c r e a t e an almost surrealistic palette for the work to shine as both a r t a n d adornment. Using well-traveled Hermès motifs, the collection layers cut and rough gemstones in necklaces, bracelets, rings, and earrings to great effect, creating shadows where there would be none, bending light, and influencing color in unexpected ways. On the Chaînes d'ombre necklace, flat-cut white diamonds are shadowed by dégradés of black spinels and blue sapphires to give volume and heft. On one Lumières brutes ring, a large rough brown diamond gently rests above a host of cut diamonds, gently altering their appearance with shades of brown to ebony. At times, words can only do so much. This is a collection that must be seen to be understood. See more at CARTIER AND JUMEX THE STATE OF TEXAS THROUGH THE LENS OF VUITTON O ne of the great appeals of jewelry is that it bridges disciplines. Part design, part fashion, it's held a prominent place in our societies for millennia. Museo Jumex is hosting the Cartier collection, which has returned to Mexico City for the first time since an exhibition at Palacio de Bellas Artes in 1999. "Cartier Design: A Living Legacy" (through May 14) is more than an array of amazing jewelry. The exhibition space itself has been transformed under the direction o f M e x i c a n architect Frida Escobedo, who is known for her 2018 commission of the Serpentine Gallery in Kensington Gardens and, more recently, as the first woman to design a wing at The Met (she's overseeing the renovation of the modern and contemporary art wing.) Curated by art critic and historian Ana Elena Mallet, the exhibition delves into the craft behind Cartier's jewels and the history that makes them such important objects. More than 160 pieces are divided into five themes and prominently cover the history of legendary Mexican actress and singer María Félix, who worked directly with Cartier to design several iconic pieces. María Felix SHADOW PLAY L ouis Vuitton's Fashion Eye series continues its trek across the globe, this time with a stop in Texas. The series of books chronicles people, landscapes, and stories from around the world, interpreted by esteemed fashion photographers. Shot in both black and white and color, each book is tailored to the specific project, from its paper to its layout and even the printing processes. For Fashion Eye Texas, Nebraskan-born, New York-based photographer Sean Thomas chronicles the landscape and heritage in 112 pages and shows the men and women who live out the legend of the once mystical frontier and their work as cowboys and cowgirls. Traveling from livestock auctions to rodeos and places in between, he offers a glimpse at a world just down the highway while capturing colorful personalities and a very American way of life that lives on today. Printed in Italy and published by Louis Vuitton, $68, at the Louis Vuitton boutique, 22

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