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in this ISSUE M AY 2 0 1 4 | S T Y L E | FA S H I O N | S O C I A L 4 , 6 , 8 P O P. C U LT U R E . G O S S I P. A s we close this issue, the fervor of Dallas Art Week lingers, with so many poignant moments to recap next month. The closing party — in celebration of Dallas Art Fair, hosted by The Joule Hotel, held at the Eye sculpture by Tony Tasset and aptly titled The Eye Ball — was indeed a glamorous eyeful. This month, Dallas witnessed a slew of celebrity visits. Jerry Hall and son Gabriel Jagger attended MTV Re:Define. Joanne and Charles Teichman of Ylang23 hosted a trunk show and private dinner for jewelry designer Jennifer Meyer with actor husband Tobey Maguire. America's fave German import Heidi Klum attended the exhibition opening of Richard Phillips and Julian Schnabel at the Dallas Contemporary, with Lara Flynn Boyle at the private dinner the night prior, and Dallas International Film Festival celebrities included Greg Kinnear and Clark Gregg (Iron Man, Thor, The Avengers). In this issue, we recap the success of the MTV Re:Define art auction and note a pair of entrepreneurs: Renaissance man and pioneer Gabriel Barbier-Mueller, plus homegrown fashion designer Lisa Moore. For social happenings, read our social datebook on page 6. The Dallas Museum of Art's Art Ball is upon us (May 3, with a special performance by John Legend), as are the Callier Cares Luncheon, TACA Lexus Party on the Green and Dallas Theater Center's Centerstage. And, get out next year's calendar: The Dallas Symphony Orchestra just announced the inaugural Soluna: International Music & Arts Festival in the Dallas Arts District, set for May 7 through 24, 2015, with the lovely Anna- Sophia van Zweden as director of festival advancement. On that closing note … I'm off to Napa for Easter weekend, for a little R&R and a glass of wine or two. Max Trowbridge Dallas Editor in Chief max@papercitymag.com Design: The world of Charles James 18 16 21 15 Party: Third annual MTV Re:Define gala Style: Inside the head of Gabriel Barbier-Mueller Decoration: What's new in the design world RACHAEL WISE 24 26 PC House & Art Design: Nesting with Lisa Moore of Cover Clothing Style: The Art of the Patroness Special Section: Living the Life in the Design District Georgia Arnold, Joyce Goss, Max Trowbridge and Adam Ball at MTV Re:Define O ften the simplest questions are the hardest to answer. When it comes to designing and crafting the perfect bag, those are the questions that designer Myriam Schaefer takes to heart. The leather-goods expert has a résumé that reads like a who's who of the fashion elite: She's worked as creative director for Balenciaga, Nina Ricci and John Paul Gaultier. Today she seizes the challenge of crafting bags that are timeless and functional, incorporating such subtleties as hand-stitched horse hair, perforated leather handles and beautifully crafted clasps … a perfect mix of elegance and functionality. $3,999 to $7,040, at Grange Hall. Michelle Aviña Dipping deep into the Cartier archives, and with a nod to Louis-François Cartier (who founded Cartier circa 1847) and Jeanne Toussaint (director of fine jewelry from 1933), Cartier launches two exquisite, eponymous collections. For men, the Louis Cartier Collection offers sleek leather messenger bags, document holders, briefcases, weekend bags and business portfolios. The Jeanne Toussaint Collection for her celebrates the chain bag, tote bag and an asymmetric pouch. Both collections can be made to measure. Here's how it works: Pick a bag style; select from camel, white or Bordeaux leather (or two colors); choose a clasp in red obsidian, pink quartz or silver obsidian; opt for a yellow golden, palladium or Ruthenium metallic finish; and engrave the interior mirror. "These two collections were a Maison initiative to really delve into the archives for something uniquely Cartier. While the shapes are current, the metal details and constructions have all been lifted from the archives," says Marlin Yusan, international director of leather goods. So, who's the lucky girl who already has one ordered? Dallas BagSnob blogger Tina Craig visited the Paris headquarters to customize her own bag. "I chose the Jeanne Toussaint asymmetric pouch style, and Marlin helped me select the skins and hardware," she says. "We went with sumptuous rouge (so very Cartier) pony hair, cream leather gussets, a gold chain and bold green stone clasp. Naturally, this bag is incredibly well made, representing the seamless fusion of jewels and bags; the chain itself is like a Cartier bracelet. I cannot wait to get another one!" Limited-edition men's accessories $1,550 to $46,300, women's bags $2,260 to $14,800, at the Cartier boutique. Rachael Abrams Snob Appeal at Cartier CH Carolina Herrera, 8687 North Central Expressway in NorthPark Center, 469.232.9002, carolinaherrera.com/ch/en One of our favorite shopping destinations, NorthPark Center, continues to up the ante with a luxury redo of the CH Carolina Herrera boutique. "Dallas is very close to my heart, because I had my first Carolina Herrera trunk show there," Mrs. Herrera shares. The newly renovated store (on level one, between Neiman Marcus and Nordstrom) showcases men's, women's and children's clothing, as well as accessories, in a 3,639-square- foot space with custom furnishings in oak, Madagascar ebony, mahogany, Amazonian teak and leather, beneath ceiling tiles embossed with the CH monogram. The men's section is dressed in masculine shades of gray, brown and black; the women's area has a more feminine touch, with glossy finishes and velvet window coverings. "The store is like a warm home, and we want the customers to feel that way," Herrera says. Her inspiration for the Spring 2014 collection comes from '70s Hollywood icons such as actress Farrah Fawcett. The designer's favorite piece from this season? "The polka-dot gown. It's a fun, fresh look and you will definitely make heads turn when you walk into the room." Let's keep it real here — whether you're decked out in dots, solids or stripes, anyone in Herrera is a stunner. Rachael Abrams HERRERA HERALDS A REDESIGN Husband-and-wife team An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx, like many great fashion designers, are students of history and sage storytellers. With their Belgian fashion label A. F. Vandevorst now in its 15th year, the duo has taken a trip through their archives, re-imagining pieces that played an important part in their history. This journey sees them teaming with famed London milliner Stephen Jones for a collection of clothing and accessories in an array of textures. This headdress (above), which can encircle the neck, plays off the theme, dramatically layering hand-hammered brass work. $1,524, at laboratoria-shop.com. Michelle Aviña METAL HEAD TINA CRAIG 22 Style: The life of an Hermès scarf CH Carolina Herrera Keegan McHargue's Borrowers and Lenders, 2013, at Fredericks & Freiser He came out with the top prize at the 2013 Texas Contemporary Art Fair — landing the impressive second annual $10,000 Texas Contemporary Award, juried by the astute duo of CAMH director Bill Arning and, in from LACMA, curator Rita Gonzalez. Meet Keegan McHargue, a 30-something Brooklyn-based painter whose semi-abstract paintings overlaid with figuration are fresh and lyrical, with a jolt of the political and a whiff of cartooning (but you'll have to work to decipher the content, which is the way McHargue likes it). As to this internationally exhibited talent's influences — he's shown from Moscow to Melbourne and, natch, extensively in Manhattan — they range from raiding the icebox of art history (at the moment, he's thinking of Fragonard in the midst of an idyllic Rococo period). He's also been shaped in ways subtle yet significant by cave painting, Bosch, Bruegel (both Elder and Younger) and della Francesca, as well as Munch, Van Gogh, Gauguin, Manet, Courbet, Soutine, John Wesley and even Peter Saul. He even names musical impresarios, from Houston's own late DJ Screw to minimalist dancer Simone Forti and pianist/composer Charlemagne Palestine, as making an impact upon his art-making. Coming to the prime-time art world after growing up in Portland, where he majored in literature at Portland State University, McHargue is low-key about his success, which began with a show a decade ago at Rivington Arms, NYC. "The gallerist's father came in and did all the lighting — turned out it was Brice Marden," he recalls. "I was too naive at the time to even be in awe." Currently represented by eminent Chelsea dealer Fredericks & Freiser — who brought McHargue to the Texas Contemporary in 2013 and will show him again at the TC, come September — the painter admits, "Winning this prize was a big break." What did he spend the five figures on? "The prize went back into my practice," he says. "With money, your oils are creamier and your colors are more heavy-bodied, your stretcher bars are straighter and your canvas has a tighter weave. I'm kidding, but … a lot of investment in materials. Also, I took a trip to Turkey." Catherine D. Anspon Contemporary Canvas: Keegan McHargue BROUGHT TO YOU BY THE TEXAS CONTEMPORARY ART FAIR September 4 – 7, 2014 H O U S T O N txcontemporary.com COURTESY THE ARTIST AND FREDERICKS & FREISER, NYC SHAYNA FONTANA Keegan McHargue GRAEME MITCHELL A.F. Vandevorst Myriam Schaefer "What do I need … What do I want?"