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84 O ne might assume that Musumé takes its name from a slight twist on "museum" — the new Asian-fusion restaurant r e s i d e s , after all, in the Dallas Arts District, home to the Dallas Museum of Art, Nasher Sculpture Center, Crow Collection, et al. But the moniker is actually Japanese for "daughter." Founder Josh Babb bestowed the name on his late- January entrée to the restaurant scene after shuttering his Asian eatery Kenichi, the 10-year staple in Victory Park. Designed by Dallas-based Gensler architects, Musumé is decidedly moodier than Flora Street Café, its neighbor in the new mixed-use development Hall Arts. Musumé's earthy color palette, dramatic pendant lighting, and thick cement beams wrapped in Asian murals are backdrop for the floor-to-ceiling centerpiece of sake bottles from the restaurant's collection of more than 100 labels (the largest in Texas, we're told). If sake isn't your thing, Musumé's cocktails are supremely delicious — sip a Pink Kimono (tequila, Luxardo liqueur, watermelon, lime, and agave with jalapeño garnish) or the Dragons Breath (Bacardi, Crème de Noyaux, dragon fruit, lime, honey, grapefruit, cherry). At lunch and dinner, smart business types who office in downtown high-rises and chic couples grabbing a bite before a performance at the Meyerson Symphony Center across the street, chatter away at the granite-slab bar and walnut tables. The menu echoes the Japan-meets-New Orleans background of executive chef Ken Lumpkin, recruited by Babb and business partner Sean Clavir, for his sushi savoir faire. The Friday Roller Coaster, rolled inside out with cucumber, crab, avocado, baked salmon, and teriyaki sauce, did not last long at our table. Nor did the seared scallops in creamy shiitake risotto, plates of wild-boar pot stickers, or grilled lamp lollipops. Our suggestion for a first visit: Order a smorgasbord of apps and entrées (including some vegan and gluten-free options), or let the staff select for you — but don't skimp on the sushi. Musumé, 2330 Flora St., 214.871.8883, musumedallas.com. A MOST MARVELOUS MUSUMÉ B Y L I N D E N W I L S O N . P H O T O G R A P H Y B E N G I B S O N . Farmers Market sashimi Musumé bar Forbidden Halibut