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74 T here is something u n e x p e c t e d about Anthony Dispensa. The French Room's n e w e x e c u t i v e chef was named to the prestigious role last year, taking over the storied Adolphus Hotel restaurant shortly after the debut of its major renovation. Led by design firm Swoon, the restaurant's interior went from a kind of 1980s garish pink-and-gold glamour to pared-back opulence, with a chic white-and-gold color palette. It's only fitting, then, that the kitchen receive an upgrade, too — one more suited to contemporary culinary appetites. And so it was that we found ourselves at The French Room in December, with a reservation for dinner. Dispensa had just debuted his first full menu — including new à la carte offerings, a first for the restaurant. First, forget everything you thought about The French Room being a stuffy haunt reserved for old-school society types. Dispensa has injected new life and a dose of approachability into both the menu and the atmosphere. He greets our table promptly, a large New York Yankees tattoo peeking out from the sleeve of his chef whites. (Yes, this fast-talking Houston native is a longtime Yankees fan, something he credits to his Italian family roots.) With a full beard and salt- and-pepper hair slicked back in a hip coif, Dispensa adds a tough- guy edge to The French Room's refined persona. It's the perfect juxtaposition, really, as he talks us through the French-inspired tasting menu, putting special emphasis on the cauliflower risotto (topped with Royal Shassetra caviar and brown butter) and the Satsuma Wagyu (served with pomme puree, rainbow THE EDGE OF GLAMOUR Swish chard, and sauce bordelaise). A favorite was Dispensa's spin on artichoke, which he serves with celery branch atop a divine "gentleman's relish" — a savory spread of butter, anchovy, and herbs. While we opted for the prix fixe menu of five courses, a star of Dispensa's adaptation of The French Room's menu is the à la carte portion, which makes the glamorous dining institution more accessible both for the pocketbook and for those short on time. We also plan to return simply for the atmosphere and The French Room's caviar service, a splurge of white sturgeon from Siberia, served with the usual trappings: buckwheat blini, crème fraîche, and shaved egg yolk. A note for those with a penchant for fromage: The cheese cart service can be ordered à la carte, too. Dispensa's presence at The French Room has us wondering if this could be Dallas' best shot at its first Michelin star. His culinary CV is impressive: He began his career working for Lydia Shire at Boston's Pignoli restaurant before taking on roles in the kitchens at Aujourd'hui at the Four Seasons Hotel Boston; Bradley Ogden's ROOT 246 in California; and Gordon Ramsay's former L.A. restaurant, The Fat Cow. Most recently, Dispensa was posted in London, where he worked for Heston Blumenthal's two-star Michelin restaurant, Dinner. Standards, we feel, have never tasted higher. THE FRENCH ROOM'S BOLD NEW CHEF REINVENTS FINE DINING WITH A REBELLIOUS BENT. CHRISTINA GEYER TAKES A BITE. Anthony Dispensa Globe artichoke Cauliflower risotto