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136 S hortly before the Fourth of July, when many flee to beach retreats on either coast, those of us left in our landlocked city had only to step into the sparkling new Loch Bar to feel transported to a storied East Coast oyster bar on Nantucket or Martha's Vineyard. Situated in River Oaks District, Loch Bar's concept — seafood tavern meets stylish speakeasy —was created by the same Baltimore brothers Alex and Eric Smith, founders of next-door neighbor Ouzo Bay. Houston's Loch Bar was designed by Patrick Sutton, who also designed the original Baltimore location. Saunter through the entrance, where the walls are covered in whitewashed shiplap, and into the 5,000-square-foot space. Take a seat in one of the cozy burgundy-hued tufted-leather banquettes pulled up to white marble tables, where gleaming brass lends the room a timeless feel. The bar boasts more than 400 bottles of LOCH IT UP whiskey — Scotch, bourbon, rye … You name the brand, they probably have it. Houston beverage director Jonathan Jones has reimagined the signature cocktail made with bourbon, lemon juice, and honey, as well as Loch's cult favorite: the Orange Crush, an icy, refreshing tincture of New Amsterdam orange vodka, triple sec, squeezed orange, and Sprite. Showstoppers on the expansive menu are the shellfish towers with fresh oysters, jumbo shrimp, Alaskan king crab, mussels, and clams on a bed of ice (petit $95, grand $195, or royal $295) and the caviar selections — Baika, Ossetra, and Beluga — served with traditional accouterments, each priced per ounce ($58 to $185). Sharable charcuterie and cheese boards (petit $16, grand $26) inspire mid-afternoon meet-ups with a glass of wine. Memorable starters are yellowfin tuna poke tossed with avocado and radish, immersed tableside in soy ginger dressing ($23), and gravlax carpaccio: smoked salmon, dollops of crème fraiche and pickled onion with an oregano-laced bread- crumb coating ($12). As for the entrees, carnivores will gravitate to the steak frites au poivre ($42), bison filet mignon ($48), burger ($16), and pork chop ($36) — but this is a seafood-centered eatery. It would be a shame to miss the fish n' chips ($28), beer-battered in local Saint Arnold Brewing Company IPA with English pea purée on the side, homemade tartar sauce, and boardwalk fries ($28), or the two giant Maryland crab cakes, which don't skimp on the lump crabmeat and are so popular I'm told they're sent to customers all over the States ($48). Best of all, if you're searching for a late-night spot, Loch Bar stays open till 2 am, while the kitchen closes at 1 am. Loch Bar, River Oaks District, 4444 Westheimer Road, 832.430.6601, lochbar.com/houston. Laurann Claridge EATING B rothers Eric and Alex Smith, founders of the Baltimore-based hospitality company Atlas Restaurant Group, have brought another elevated restaurant concept to Houston — and this one speaks with a Greek accent. The name Ouzo Bay doesn't reflect an actual place in the Mediterranean; instead, it evokes the bracing Greek liqueur ouzo as well as the fresh seafood abundant in the region. River Oaks District is Ouzo Bay's third location in the U.S., with open and airy interiors created by Washington, D.C.-based interior designer Olivia Demetriou. At the entry, pearl-colored iridescent tiles lie underfoot and shimmer on the walls behind a behemoth bar. Cool Aegean-blue fabric lines the banquettes, while lighting shades overhead conjure octopus tentacles. Executive chef Thomas Laczynski oversees lunch, dinner, and brunch service, while sommelier Evan Turner generously guides those unfamiliar with the wines grown on the isles and mainland of Greece. Kalamata olive-studded bread is brought to the table with a shallow pool of Greek olive oil, its flavor deepened with oregano, rosemary, and other herbs. Order a house spread such as tirokafteri, a rich blend of roasted red peppers and feta cheese ($7), or tzatziki, a cool cucumber, onion, and Greek yogurt dip ($7), paired with a glass of crisp, clean Alexakis Assytiko white wine from Crete ($16). As for the seafood mezedes, don't miss the grilled Portuguese octopus, tossed with sweet onions and red peppers, dressed in a simple red wine and caper vinaigrette ($24). And, what's a meal in Greece without lamb. For those of us who adore a good steak tartar, the chef's take on it here is Australian lamb tartare drizzled with harissa-spiked yogurt and crispy capers, and served with tiny squares of lavash ($18). As you might expect from a country where its citizens' enviable longevity is linked to the Blue Zone diet, fish dominate the menu. The Fish Market section of the carte features a dozen selections, from bronzino to sea bass, kampachi to Dover sole, each flown in daily from its native waters. My royal dorado was fished from the Mediterranean and served whole, dressed simply with ladolemono, a mix of fresh lemon juice, saffron- infused olive oil, sea salt, pepper, and capers. Ouzo Bay, River Oaks District, 4444 Westheimer Road, 832.430.6610, ouzobay.com/houston. Laurann Claridge GREEK REVIVAL Watermelon salad Maryland crab cakes KRISTEN GILLIAM KRISTEN GILLIAM