PaperCity Magazine

October 2019- Houston

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Page 125 of 135

124 T he name is unforgettable: Rosie Cannonball — the new Montrose eatery brought to us by Peter McCarthy, David Keck, June Rodil, and Felipe Riccio of Goodnight Hospitality, which also developed the neighboring Montrose Cheese & Wine, both of which opened within weeks of each other. Goodnight has given the block a facelift with help from architectural firm Curtis & Windham, while NYC designer Robert McKinley fashioned Rosie Cannonball's modern, light-filled interiors. Reserve a table and sip a complimentary glass of Lambrusco selected by Master Sommeliers David Keck and June Rodil. Chef/partner Felipe Riccio and chef de cuisine Adam Garcia's European comfort food centers around their wood-burning oven and grill, with vegetables from Pete and Bailey McCarthy's Good Thyme Farm in Bellville. Start with sharable plates such as little gem lettuces with smoked trout roe and creamy sherry vinaigrette ($12); or a warm version of caponata with roasted eggplant, capers, tomatoes, and almonds ($14). Then there are the pizzas, whose high-hydration dough yields a chewy, crisp crust. The three-cheese version is topped with mozzarella, latteria, and cacciota from cheese producer Lira Rossa in Moulton ($18). Pastas include Rigatoni di Mancini tossed with friarielli pesto, served with Lira Rossa smoked ricotta and butter-fried bread crumbs ($18). Yearning for a bit of protein cooked over a live fire? Options include bream with pil-pil sauce and marinated citrus salad ($32) and bone-in steak Fiorentina (market price). For dessert, try pastry chef Shawn Gawle's mint gelato with caramelized cocoa nibs and dark chocolate ($8). Heads-up: Coming from the McCarthys in 2020 is March, a 26-seat tasting-menu restaurant upstairs. Just next door is Goodnight's Montrose Cheese & Wine, an old- school shop with a wine sommelier on site. Stocked in the 800-square- foot shop are 125 different bottles, with many selections under $40 and premium wines for cellaring, from wine director Ryan Cooper. Then there's the cheese. General manager Shannon McCracken curates 12 to 15 rotating varieties from notable cheesemongers the world over, as well as some from our own backyard. Rosie Cannonball, and Montrose Cheese & Wine, 1618 and 1620 Westheimer Road, rosiecannonball. com, A KISS GOODNIGHT The Curtis & Windham-designed Rosie Cannonball and Montrose Cheese & Wine Rosie Cannonball Montrose Cheese & Wine Rosie Cannonball Rosie Cannonball ALL IMAGES THIS PAGE JULIE SOEFER

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