Issue link: http://papercitymagazine.uberflip.com/i/1541487
As l e g a c y j e w e l s a r e concerned, there are few more recognizable p i e c e s t h a n t h e Byzantine-inspired Maltese Cross cuff made famous by Verdura with its maximal gold sheen, geometric motif, and colorful inlay of precious and semiprecious stones. The story behind the design begins in the early 1930s, when Duke Fulco di Verdura took a European jaunt with friend and fellow tourist, Coco Chanel. Inspired by the Byzantine mosaics of Empress Theodora as seen in Ravenna's Church of San Vitale, Verdura decided to press gems into gold — much like the mosaic tiles had been pressed into the walls. His first iteration was the now-iconic Maltese Cross cuff, which he made as a personal present for Mademoiselle Chanel. Needless to say, she loved the cuff, collecting and working Verdura's pieces into much of her wardrobe throughout the decade. (We dare you to find a photograph of her from this era without one of Verdura's designs clasped to her wrist.) Today, Chanel's personal collection of Maltese Cross Verdura cuffs, necklaces, and brooches is revered as priceless works of art, having been displayed at The Metropolitan Museum of Art and in Verdura's own museum. But fret not, modern-day mademoiselles, Verdura has reissued the collection numerous times with a contemporary spin and myriad stone, enamel, and precious gem combinations. Verdura Maltese Cross Cuff Verdura Maltese Cross cuffs: Black jade with amethyst, peridots, pearls, diamonds, and gold; cocholong with aquamarine, peridots, pearls, diamonds, and gold. Chanel Spring/ Summer 2026, on right. Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2026, on left. Laura Gonzalez for Schumacher Roman Reverie.