Issue link: http://papercitymagazine.uberflip.com/i/1541487
T here's a new high-profile boîte for the g l i t t e r a t i set: Maison Chinoise, brought to us by Lombardi Family C o n c e p t s ( To u l o u s e , Lombardi Cucina Italiana, Segreto Lounge). Poised in the well-heeled stomping ground of River Oaks Shopping Center on West Gray is a fusion of contemporary and traditional Chinese cuisine, with a spotlight on regional specialties. The intimate space, d e s i g n e d b y N D D o f Houston, seamlessly merges a 3,700-square-foot dining room with a 900-square- foot temperature-controlled outdoor patio, for a total of 130 seats. The aesthetic gives a subtle nod to traditional Asian elements, from cherry blossoms on the ceiling wallpaper to Art Deco-like fringe-shaded light fixtures and cane-back chairs (which, I might add, are quite cozy). Helming the open-style kitchen is Chinese-born executive chef Jordan He, who was lured to Houston from his previous post at Wynn Las Vegas. He spent nearly a decade there at Wing Lei, the first Chinese-inspired eatery in North America to earn a Michelin star. Other highlights of his career include stints at Red 8, also at the Wynn, and Hakkasan Group concepts in Miami and Los Angeles. The menu carries on the tradition of Chinese restaurants stateside, offering tempting dishes built on Asian roots filtered through a Western lens. For example, the appetizer Sichuan salt and pepper lamb lollipops is a trio of lamb chops subtly seasoned with By Laurann Claridge. Photography Becca Wright. at the New ginger, scallion, five spices, cumin, and Sichuan salt and pepper, accompanied by a pile of bright red ground Sichuan to increase the heat if desired ($32). Soups include their take on hot and sour ($10) and wonton soup, the latter elevated with Iberico pork ($12), while the three salad selections meld western ingredients with yuzu or plum-based dressings. Dim sum, served here at any hour, is made in-house. Dumpling options include Xiao Long bao Kurobuta pork soup dumplings filled with chicken broth ($16) and Har Gow dumplings stuffed with king prawns and bamboo shoots, topped with black caviar and a glimmer of gold leaf ($18). For those who couldn't possibly enjoy Chinese fare without a bite into a crispy egg roll, you haven't been forgotten. Look for the crispy Wagyu beef rolls with a Thai sweet chili sauce ($16) and the unexpected crispy pastrami egg roll with a spicy beer mustard for dipping ($15). The house specialty, imperial Peking duck, does not disappoint. Available in half and full orders ($49/$98), the bird is dry- aged for two to three days — and the laborious process East Meets West Maison Chinoise Dishes at the new Maison Chinoise by Lombardi Family Concepts. Elemental Drift cocktail. 78