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O ne of Dallas' most highly a n t i c i p a t e d restaurants, M a m a n i , has finally opened — and it was worth the wait. Brothers Brandon and Henry Cohanim, co-founders of Feels Like Home (Namo and Bar Colette) have debuted their boîte in The Quad in Uptown. Formerly known as the Quadrangle, the revamped development features seven restaurants along with an office tower and pocket park. Designed by architectural firm Omniplan, each restaurant is housed in a stand-alone bungalow. Mamani is in the largest, which spans 5,200 square feet. The interiors were designed by London- based Bryan O'Sullivan Studio (Red Room at The Connaught, the restaurant in London's Claridge's hotel, Westmoreland at The Frick). Mamani is their first freestanding U.S. restaurant and includes two dining rooms with plaster walls, marble architraves, and custom end-grain flooring. There's also a private dining room and a bar clad in burl paneling and fitted with an onyx niche for bottles and glassware. An air-conditioned garden terrace overlooks Routh Street. By Laurann Claridge. Photography Studio Rivera. Mamani's interiors were designed by Bryan O'Sullivan Studio. Cazuela de Bivalves at Mamani. When we first spoke with the brothers last year, they had just hired French-born chef Christophe De Lellis, who left a high-profile role at the three-Michelin- starred Joël Robuchon in Las Vegas. "We want to create restaurants that are upscale, but comfortable and approachable," Brandon said. "It's important to us to make food that's familiar to people." De Lellis later reiterated this, saying, "I just want to cook food that I want to eat. Simple dishes that dazzle." The menu consists of classic French cuisine rooted in Paris with influences from the French and Italian Rivieras; De Lellis was born in Paris, but his grandparents were all Italian. Family is also important to the Cohanim brothers — Mamani is even named after their grandmother, who split her time between Paris and the South of France. They added penne Arrabbiata to the menu because they always ordered it when growing up, even if it wasn't on the menu. Start your meal with Bread We Bake, served with Rodolphe Le Meunier butter. Our server told us The Bread Club is coming soon next door — a destination for sweet and savory viennoiserie, sandwiches, salads, and more. Small bites and starters include croquettes filled with Benton's country ham and Manchego; artichoke with Za'atar yogurt, confit tomato, and mint, presented as a little salad; and Vitello Tonnato, a classic Italian dish with cold sliced veal, creamy tuna sauce, mustard seed, and capers. There are four pasta dishes; a current favorite is agnolotti filled with sweet corn and topped with chanterelle mushrooms. But veal Cordon Bleu was the stunner of the night. De Lellis serves it tableside, drizzling veal jus atop both the meat and the pomme purée, an iconic Joël Robuchon recipe. Mamani's menu changes seasonally, but favorites will remain. The cocktail list features concoctions from James Beard Award finalist Bar Colette's Rubén Rolón, including five types of Negronis. Mamani, 2681 Howell St., mamanirestaurant.com. Another Feather in Their Toque: The Ortega Family Opens Zesty Zaranda 80