PaperCity Magazine

September 2018- Dallas

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Page 153 of 167

152 C ome for the cocktails, stay for the taxidermy. That could be the motto for eccentric Victory Park saloon Billy Can Can, where a bobcat, raccoon, stag, peacock, bear, and other antique stuffed animals loom over patrons of the 19th- century-inspired watering hole, which is named for a charmingly aloof fictitious proprietor. The new restaurant concept is from Tristan Simon's Rebees group, which he founded two years ago after leaving his post as CEO of Consilient Hospitality (The Porch, Victor Tangos, CBD Provisions at The Joule hotel), which Headington Companies acquired in 2014. Billy Can Can offers ambitious modern Texas fare from executive chef Matt Ford, formerly of CBD and Americano at The Joule: buffalo tenderloin, Texas venison tartare, swordfish steak, roasted Gulf snapper, rabbit pappardelle, fried redfish po'boy, and hot-fried quail. Hearty dishes are complemented by bar manager Zach Smigiel's concoctions, BILLY, BON VIVANT BY LINDEN WILSON PHOTOGRAPHY ELIZABETH LAVIN such as Billy's Elixir (whiskey, sandalwood, beef bouillon, Madeira wine, and bitters) and the frozen Card Shark (rum, Strega liqueur, mint, cane sugar, and bitters, served in a glass boot). The restaurant stays true to Texas, with rabbit, venison, Wagyu beef, quail, and produce plucked from local farms. Design elements include a 40-foot pecan-wood bar and 12-foot African mahogany communal table. Dallas designer Kate Murphy sourced most of the taxidermy in Texas, but she couldn't resist the 200-year-old British hawk diving at a mouse that she found at a Chicago flea market. Outside, there's another Instagrammable spot in town: L.A.-based Thunderwing studio's giant silhouette of Billy Can Can, his persona emblazoned around him: bon vivant, vagabond, pioneer, mystagogue, card sharp, and liberator. Currently open for dinner service; weekend brunch coming soon. Billy Can Can, 2386 Victory Park Lane, 214.296.2610, Shoepeg corn salad Billy Can Can silhouetted outside the restaurant Executive chef Matt Ford Eccentricity inside Billy Can Can Billy Can Can saloon

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