PaperCity Magazine

March 2020- Fort Worth

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FOOD NOTES M arcus Paslay, chef and owner of Clay Pigeon and Piattello Italian Kitchen, plans to open his next big project this FORT WORTH'S DINING SCENE IS ON FIRE — AND IT'S NOT ALL ABOUT STEAK, TACOS, AND BARBECUE. SOME OF THE MOST EXCITING NEW RESTAURANTS ARE TAKING A FRESH LOOK AT THE COMFORT FOODS WE KNOW SO WELL OR PUSHING IN ENTIRELY NEW DIRECTIONS WITH INTERNATIONAL MENUS. HERE ARE SIX TO PUT ON YOUR LIST. 88 month in the Stockyard's booming Mule Alley. A greenhouse-style entry will lead into Provender Hall's two-story, loft- like bar and dining room, and the open kitchen will turn out what sounds like an extravagant take on American comfort food. Early drafts of the menu include hearty dishes such as chicken gumbo, buffalo tenderloin, crispy okra, braised greens, and cheddar-cheese grits. A J&R smoker and wood-burning grill add some smoke to the mix — and we have to say, that's the part of the menu that grabbed our attention. Don't miss: Blackened shrimp and grits with blistered tomato beurre blanc, and smoked pork chop with white-bean stew. Provender Hall, Mule Alley, Fort Worth Stockyards, 122 E. Exchange Ave., Fort Worth, no phone number at press time, T here's a reason Korean- style fried chicken has outlasted its status as a trend and become a full- fledged genre of its own. The stuff is delicious, and a couple of months ago, chef Josh Harmon started serving up his own version at this casual spot tucked inside The Moon: Bar & Live Music near the TCU campus. BirdieBop's chicken starts with a free-range local bird brined with Southern seasonings and gently cooked sous vide, then battered, fried, and drenched in a spicy Korean- style sauce. Other tasty chicken things on Harmon's menu include Nashville ÁTICO hot chicken, chicken nuggets, and K-Town wings with lime, sesame, and Funyuns. Don't miss: The Closed on Sunday sandwich on a bao bun. BirdieBop, The Moon: Bar & Live Music, 2000 W. Berry St., Fort Worth, 817.688.3002, C elebrity chef Tim Love has transported his vision of a Barcelona tapas bar to the rooftop of the new Springhill Suites by Marriott in the historic Stockyards. Ático is a stunner, with a modern, glass-roofed interior and spacious patio lined with glass railings — the better to take in the spectacular views while sipping a cocktail. Try an FROM SPANISH TAPAS TO SIBERIAN OSETRA, 6 NEW RESTAURANTS TO BOOK BY COURTNEY DABNEY PROVENDER HALL WICKED BUTCHER BIRDIEBOP array of Spanish tapas such as patatas bravas and pan con tomate. There's also a selection of cocas, the Catalan flatbreads, with Texas-style toppings such as deer salami. Don't miss: José's tacos, with caviar and gold flakes wrapped in jamón Ibérico. Ático, 2315 N. Main St., Fort Worth, 682.255.5112. S oon after The Sinclair opened downtown, the Fort Worth luxury hotel debuted its showplace restaurant, the Wicked Butcher. The interior, by Dash Design, is a polished, comfortable mix of white subway tile with tufted leathers, butcher-block tables, and Art Deco-tinged lighting. The modern steakhouse menu has its share of massive cowboy rib eyes and gussied- up steak tartare, but it surprises with an equally deep selection of seafood, with a raw bar and entrees such as ginger-miso swordfish and seared salmon with parsley puree, parsnips and lemon-caper butter. Chef Richard Triptow offers caviar service as well, a rarity in Fort Worth, with a choice of Siberian osetra, salmon roe, or paddlefish roe, served with blini and all the traditional accents. Don't miss: Savory-sweet corn crème brulée with cheese, poblano, and a brown-sugar crust. Wicked Butcher, The Sinclair, 512 Main St., Fort Worth, 817.601.4621, Tomahawk steak with wild mushrooms Shrimp and grits The Night Ninja sandwich Grilled oysters with guanciale BRITTANY BAERWALD

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