PaperCity Magazine

PaperCity Houston March 2021

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NOTES ON FASHION OF ART AND ARTIST EXTRAIT DE CAMÉLIA TOMMY, TOMMY,TOMMY, TOMMY … S wiss fashion house Akris, led by creative director Albert Kriemler, has gained fame for its St. Gallen embroidery and pioneering work with digital photo printing techniques. The spring collection leans heavily on the work of German minimalist artist Imi Knoebel, whom Kriemler first met and bonded with in Vienna at S o says the late, great Philip Seymour Hoffman's character to Tom Ripley, played by Matt Damon, in The Talented Mr. Ripley as they sail the Mediterranean. Tom, it seems, was just being Tom, and Hoffman had his proverbial eye on him. Well, Mr. Tom Ford is up to his old tricks as well. The man who never stops has released his newest fragrance, Costa Azzurra, which BY STEVEN HEMPEL PUNK PONIES D rawing inspiration from the Emile Hermès collection, the cashmere-and-silk Cheval Punk scarf with hand-rolled edges, designed by Daiske Nomura, blends equestrian heritage, house motifs, and a punk spirit in its latest release. $770, at the Hermès boutique, C hanneling the spirit of the times, the new book Her Dior: Maria Grazia Chiuri's New Voice (Rizzoli) is a celebration of the feminist spirit. Maria Grazia Chiuri, appointed as Dior's first female director in 2016, has long been a champion of women's issues and has woven this spirit into much of her work for the fashion house. The 240-page volume examines the designer's haute couture and ready-to- wear collections from 2017 to 2021, with images from leading female photographers including Nan Goldin, Sarah Moon, Brigitte Niedermair, Coco Capitán, Vanina Sorrenti, Julia Hetta, Katerina Jebb, Zoë Ghertner, and Bettina Rheims, as well as essays, quotes, and poems by Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie, Linda Nochlin, Claire Fontaine, Judy Chicago, and Tomaso Binga, amongst others. $95, at local booksellers, RAISING HER VOICE Akris Ai handbag C hanel has launched a new Extrait de Camélia collection in honor of Coco Chanel's favorite flower. Since its debut in 1987, the Première watch has been a staple of the luxury house — a simple yet elegant design inspired by Ms. Chanel's beloved Place Vendôme. The Première Extrait de Camélia infuses the original design with the camellia, the artist's color workshop, a space draped with 700 color swatches where Knoebel creates unique hues. Knoebel and Kriemler worked closely together during the design process, and the artist's works translates especially well on the latest version of the house's iconic Ai handbag, adorned with elegant geometric patterns, a pretty play on Knoebel's Messerchnitt, 1977, acrylic on paper. Available across multiple colorways and materials, the handbag unfolds to become a tote. Akris Ai handbag $2,290, at the Akris boutique, is meant to capture the relaxed and sexy mood of the Mediterranean. The eau de parfum mixes cypress, oak, and driftwood to produce an aquatic, slightly smoky and woodsy fragrance with subtle hints of citrus. Like many of Ford's scents, it works well for both sexes. It's perfect for those seeking a little escape — and aren't we all. Tom Ford Costa Azzurra, 50ml $134, 100ml $184, at incorporating an 18K yellow-gold case and a choice of two faces, one with a black-lacquered dial and the other set with 116 brilliant-cut diamonds, each in a limited edition of 1,000. Both watch designs have a camellia charm set with diamonds. Chanel Premiére Extrait de Camélia Watch, black lacquer $7,100, diamond-set dial $14,200, at the Chanel boutique.

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