Issue link: http://papercitymagazine.uberflip.com/i/1376323
THE BIRTH OF FEGEN'S BECAME THE NEXT CHAPTER L ast August, when the world was in a pandemic l o c k d o w n , t h e restaurant industry was brought to the brink of ruin. We witnessed chefs and owners doing anything to stay afloat, from adjusting their business models to accommodate take-out to feeding stressed medical professionals and those on the margins of society. Like most restaurateurs, the F.E.E.D. Restaurant Group contemplated their future — until a stroke of luck last summer brought them an opportunity to write their next chapter. Omar Khan, CEO of Culinary Khancepts, offered to purchase their Liberty Kitchen concept. The F.E.E.D. team decided to let two of the three locations go, holding back the original Heights location and rebranding it Fegen's, after their longtime chef- partner, Lance Fegen. F.E.E.D.'s design mind and partner, Carl Eaves (Eaves Construction and Design Services), created atmosphere that Fegen describes as "a place the Jersey pit bosses from the casinos would hang out after work. It's Italian with a little Irish-pub vibe thrown in." Stroll in the new side entrance, into the clubby dining room with white-cloth-draped tables and cherry-red booths. The bar is backlit with emerald-green subway tiles, with cobalt-blue bar chairs. You can make a reservation via Resy, but most seats are assigned on a first- come, first-serve basis. The American-style menu borrows heavily from the red- sauce circuit fare of Little Italy. Start with a Staycation, bourbon shaken with lemon juice, passion fruit, and grapefruit bitters ($10) or Fegen's take on the Aperol spritz, made with tequila mixed with citrus and a splash of Prosecco and soda ($11). Starters include steamed blue mussels floating atop a San Marzano tomato and garlic butter sauce ($16) and clam chowder ($10). But don't miss the hot-cross buns and Parker house rolls served with Irish butter and brown gravy ($7). Fegen's egg-rich Carbonara Bucatini is bacon-studded and tinged with pecorino ($19). His Sicilian pizzas can support a lot of toppings — in our case, fried eggplant, dollops of fresh ricotta, Calabrese pesto, and fresh basil, on a pie dubbed Purple Rain ($14). Protein mains include chicken saltimbocca ($20) and king salmon ($28). Desserts range from the pie of the day to red velvet shortcake ($8 each) and the burnt-marshmallow milkshake ($6). Open for dinner at 5 pm, Tuesday through Sunday, with lunch and brunch service commencing soon. Fegen's, 1050 Studewood St., 713.993.6427, fegens.com. xxxxxxx BY LAURANN CLARIDGE. PHOTOGRAPHY CARLA GOMEZ. Rago's Sunday Meatball rigatoni topped with veal and sweet sausage tomato gravy Chef /partner Lance Fegen Designer/ partner Carl Eaves 60