PaperCity Magazine

PaperCity Houston September 2023

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room that seats just 16 inside (with another 16 at the bar), as well as a shaded patio deck that will seat 72 when the weather accommodates. To transform the nearly century-old bungalow, he enlisted Betty Maccagnan, who previously designed The Pass & Provisions. Here, Maccagnan has installed Art Deco pendants and globe lighting, a Carrara-marble-topped bar, and two colorways of the whimsical Hygge & West Fable wallpaper where the tortoise and the hare play out the childhood classic tale, frolicking on every vertical surface of the Lilliputian space. Outside, take a seat on the freshly restored white vintage wrought- iron Salterini-style furniture, updated with a tropical-pink-patterned fabric. Terrence served as both chef and wine buyer at The Pass & Provisions, so for Elro he's curated a concise wine list that ranges from natural sparklers and New World favorites to Old World benchmarks from Italy. The bar offers beer on tap, classic cocktails, and eight house specialties created by bar manager Patrick Dougherty. The opening menu is tightly edited, with starters that include a slice of toasted sourdough bruschetta piled high with creamy whipped ricotta, topped with minced giardiniera ($9); for $5 more, add fresh anchovies (boquerones) or sliced prosciutto di Parma. Scamorza arancini includes four orbs of breaded and fried Italian rice filled with a melted morsel of Scamorza cheese, all poised atop a mildly spicy arrabbiata sauce ($12). Other starters include a vegan Caesar ($13), saltimbocca sausage stuffed with chicken and prosciutto ($16), and a hoagie built with mortadella, hot coppa, provolone, and giardiniera ($18). On the lighter side are delectable crudo (raw) dishes such as oysters on the half shell with calamansi, cucumber, and pink peppercorn mignonette ($21); tuna on toast with nori, pistachio, and 'Nduja, a cured pork meat assemblage ($22); and nepitella-cured salmon enlivened with apples, celery, and hazelnuts ($22). I enjoyed the subtle smoked Kampachi — slices of smoky yellowtail with fried baby yellow squash and zucchini slices and pumpkin seeds, topped with dollops of citrusy yuzu kosho sauce ($20). The shareable 12-inch pizzas are built on a crisp crust that gives way to a chewy pull. Sure, there's the mozzarella ($19) for the purist, but why not go for the unexpected, such as the mortadella, drizzled with pistachio pesto, balsamic marinated onions, and Parmesan ($24) or the guanciale (Italian cured pork cheeks) with a white parmesan sauce reminiscent of the foundation of an onion-scented sauce soubise ($22). For those who love cured meats, Gallivan says, "The chorizo is our version of a pepperoni pie — really nice chorizo seco from Salumeria Biellese in New York City atop a tomato sauce with Mahón cheese from Spain and piquillo peppers. Once it's baked, it's topped off with dressed arugula. I'm basically trying to recreate a delicious sandwich I had at Borough Market in London 15 years ago" ($22). Elro is currently open from noon to 10 pm Wednesday through Saturday with plans to open Tuesdays in the near future. Reservations are suggested for dining indoors. Elro Pizza + Crudo, 2405 Genesee St., The 12-inch pizzas are built on a crisp crust that give way to a chewy pull Elro's century-old bungalow was designed by Betty Mccagnan. Hygge & West Fable wallpaper sets the scene at Elro 112

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