PaperCity Magazine

PaperCity Houston November 2023

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W hen people try to put Thom Browne in a preppy box, I always defend him. (Full confession: As a proud member of the four-bar fan club, I nearly turned this article into a billet-doux.) If anything, let's call his look subversive Since launching his namesake line in 2003, Thom Browne has amassed an almost cult- like following. For those who adhere to his uniform look — his acclaimed interpretation of a modern-day suit with a slightly shrunken silhouette — it's time to celebrate: Phaidon just released a comprehensive monograph, perfectly timed with the designer's 20th anniversary. By Billy Fong ALASTAIR NICOL JOHNNY DUFORT GRAY MATTER blue. But at times he sprinkles in patterns, such as houndstooth or whimsical whales. His accessories are often an homage to his dachshund Hector, via a dog-shaped handbag or printed socks. Amsterdam-based graphic designer Irma Bloom, who is internationally recognized for her innovative book designs, created the 400- page style bible celebrating Mr. Browne. It's filled with more than 200 images of runway looks, both men's and women's wear, including 40 gatefolds to discuss over an old-school cocktail. Andrew Bolton — the Wendy Yu curator in charge at The Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute in New York, as well as Browne's longtime partner — is creative director of the title and wrote the introduction. We suspect this tome will find a prominent place on many a well-suited coffee table — might we suggest adjacent to the equally weighty Neutra: Complete Works book, which came in a wood cover from Taschen in 2010 and proclaimed his legacy in the canon of mid- century architecture. Thom Browne's book will encourage you to take fashion seriously — even if you have a slew of dachshund-inspired accessories tucked away in your wardrobe. prepster. His clean lines and seemingly conservative creations look almost like uniforms, but scan the front row at his runway presentations, and you'll find an e c l e c t i c b u n c h . Regular attendees include NBA stars (LeBron James), musicians (Janet Jackson and Cardi B), famed actors (old schoolers Marisa Berenson and Sharon Stone and newly minted such as Evan Mock), and artists (Anh Duong and Amy Sherald). Many have worn his creations for the famed walk up The Met's stairs for the Costume Institute Gala — one of our favorites being Christine Baranski. The world saw First Lady Michelle Obama wearing the checkered navy silk coat and dress that he created for the 2013 inauguration festivities. Thom Browne's work conjures up the mid-century — not the frivolity of Doris Day's Pillow Talk or conga lines at a martini-fueled ranch-style house party, but the more serious tone of North by Northwest and early space exploration. In fact, for one of Major Thom's first runway presentations, male models filed out in astronaut gear, then disrobed simultaneously to unveil his signature suit. Are there 50 shades of gray in Mr. Browne's quiver of colors? No, he stays in his lane with classic monochromatic gray and navy Thom Browne, tuxedo, Autumn/ Winter 2009- 2010 menswear collection Thom Browne Thom Browne, opera coat, Spring/Summer 2023 womenswear JOHNNY DUFORT 32

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