PaperCity Magazine

September 2017 - Houston

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48 J ust as the critically acclaimed Helen Greek Food and Wine restaurant in Rice Village was prepping for its second birthday, the team had to do a quick about-face. Their other restaurant, a Little Italy concept called Arthur Ave., wasn't working, so they retooled the Heights-area space to create another outpost of their modern Greek taverna, this one dubbed Helen in the Heights. Hellenistic-style frescos and vintage travel posters now line the white-washed, dark- stained wood-clad walls, thanks to a decorating fix by Erin Hicks. Executive chef of this Greek cruise ship is William Wright, who has been recognized by the James Beard Foundation and was nominated for Rising Star Chef of the Year; he's joined by passionate founder and head sommelier BECCA WRIGHT THE HEIGHTS WELCOMES HELEN OPA! Evan Turner. While the Rice Village locale focuses on the regional cuisine of Greece, here in the Heights, Wright oversees a menu of traditional Greek dishes. Shareable meze options include greens-n-cheese pie, a riff on spanakopita that mixes spinach, chard, collard greens, and dandelion with a trio of Greek cheeses ($12), and flour-dipped, battered, and fried zucchini chips served with a garlic yogurt ($8). For fresh greens, try the orzo salad ($8) or the more iconic Greek-style village salad ($10). If gyros are your thing, choose from eight varieties of protein to create a personal size or a platter for the table ($12 to $36). Main courses include grilled shrimp saganaki, prepared tableside in a hot skillet and bathed in a caper-tinged tomato sauce, sprinkled with feta cheese and served with warm pita bread ($18), and eggplant-laced moussaka, a casserole layered with spiced beef redolent of cinnamon and allspice, whipped potatoes, and b├ęchamel sauce, all broiled and browned before arriving tableside ($17). Sweet endings include sweetened semolina-flour custard; bougatsa baked in phyllo and served warm with cinnamon sugar; and bourbon-spiked baklava soft-serve ice cream, topped with salt-roasted pecans and a touch of honey ($8 each). Helen in the Heights, 1111 Studewood, 832.582.7146, Laurann Claridge Mussels saganaki Grilled briam

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