PaperCity Magazine

February 2018- Dallas

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72 D evotees of Dallas' most see-and-be-seen Tex- Mex restaurants (some of which have become lax in service and culinary quality) have switched their loyalty and now cozy up at Jalisco Norte in burgeoning Turtle Creek Village. It all began with a text sent earlier this fall by beloved wait staffer Marisol Arias, who announced that she had departed her longtime post at McKinney Avenue Mexican-food eatery Mr. Mesero for a new epicurean adventure. Jalisco Norte, a concept from Dallas-based NL Group, is divine, to be sure — with lunch, dinner, and weekend brunch menus inspired by flavors from its namesake Mexican state; charismatic young chef Jose Meza, whose CV includes Cancun's luxe Hotel Nizuc and the posh Mexico City restaurant Pujol; and charming interiors by Dallas-based Coevál Studios (The Rustic, Happiest Hour, Pakpao). On a recent visit, Arias greeted our party as the restaurant's new ambassador. "Jalisco Norte is meant to feel like a home you'd find in Central America," she said — and it does, with lower ceilings, separate rooms, and BY LINDEN WILSON PHOTOGRAPHY CHRIS PLAVIDAL greenery sprouting throughout. We tucked into a booth in a room dubbed the tree house, with floor-to-ceiling windows that can swing open for an al fresco vibe. There's a small section on the menu labeled Los Familiares (i.e., enchiladas, flautas, quesadillas), but all of Meza's authentic Mexican fare is marvelous: creamy queso fundido, tamales smothered in beans and goat cheese, Mexican street corn, Yucatan duck tacos, chicken in a Central Mexican peanut sauce, and grilled red snapper dusted with a spicy- sour citrus glaze. Arias also suggested we try the delicious and ornately presented Carlota lemon pie, which reminds her of her childhood. Rounding out the offerings are punchy margaritas and clever cocktails, such as jalapeño-infused Bring the Heat; Keeping Up With the Jerry Joneses, a $50 concoction with Gran Patrón Platinum tequila and raw agave from Jalisco; and the Oaxacan in Manhattan, a cheeky take on the traditional drink with mezcal, tequila, and sweet vermouth. Breakfast and a lonchería (walk-up window for takeout orders) are forthcoming. Jalisco Norte, 3858 Oak Lawn Ave., 214.443.5183, jalisconorte.com. HALLELUJAH, JALISCO Birria de res (slow-braised short-rib)

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