PaperCity Magazine

PaperCity Dallas September 2022

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American dining, starting with sushi faves (we loved the beautifully plated cucumber roll), chicken meatballs in roasted yellow mole sauce, and the Brentwood salad with shaved Brussels sprouts, almonds, and lemon vinaigrette. Other standouts include three kinds of burgers (The Classic, Hickory, Vegetable) and the French dip. For dessert, opt for the chocolate silk pie or wild berry cobbler, both baked on-site. Brentwood's drink menu includes the Espresso Martini, a fusion of top- shelf vodka and almond espresso, and the 50/50 Martini made with gin, vodka, and Lillet. Wits Steakhouse 1628 Oak Lawn Ave. 214.712.9700 witssteakhouse.com When Oak restaurant closed in 2021 after nearly 10 years in the Design District, it was left to the imagination what Apheleia Restaurant Group (El Bolero, Hawthorn, Pakpao Thai) would do with the space. Well imagine this: Wits Steakhouse, a modern South African-inspired take on the traditional steakhouse, that debuted with little fanfare, given the lingering aftermath of COVID, with jet-black walls with gold touches, inky booths with contrasting white tablecloths, and a bar area featuring paintings by local artists. Owner Richard Ellman drew inspiration from his upbringing: "Wits" is the nickname for the University of Witwatersrand in Johannesburg, where Ellman's mother went to college. The region is known for the mines that once provided the majority of the world's gold — hence, the gleaming alloy accents in the space. The cocktail menu has creative options; we recommend the Salt Foam Margarita, a concoction of Herradura silver tequila, Cointreau, and agave, topped with a dollop of salt-air foam that blends with the liquid as it dissolves. It's an absolute delight. The official drink is the Gold Digger, priced at $50, made with JCB truffle-infused vodka and Mathilde Poir Gold caviar, and Perrier-Jouet Belle Epoque Champagne. Dining options provide mighty sustenance from chef Jeremy Lewis, from a tomahawk steak, dry-aged bone-in rib eye and a solid mix of steakhouse classics to a full service of sushi. n other news, Enrique Tomás has moved from its Henderson Avenue location (where it opened at the start of 2020) to the former Mot Hai Ba space in Victory Park … Who doesn't love a resurrection story? In 2019, Irish bar Capitol Pub shuttered in its spacious corner space on Henderson Avenue. Iconic Dallas Italian restaurant Sfuzzi moved in and has been packed ever since. First opened in Uptown in the 1980s (then revived in 2009, only to shutter in 2013), this pizza bar was brought back to life by This & That Hospitality's Brandon Hays and Phil Schanbaum. Chef Peja Kristic (Mot Hai Ba) serves as consulting chef; he was executive corporate chef for Sfuzzi from 2011 to 2013. Over in the Harwood District, Poco Fiasco, an intimate pizza and martini spot, located on La Rue Purdue near fellow HD spots Harwood Arms and Elephant East, opens this fall. Expect elevated pies such as Quattro Formaggi, The Texan with brisket and barbecue sauce, Grandma's Margherita, and Bacon & Egg. A build- your-own martini program promises to be a highlight … Brooklyn-based, Australia- inspired all-day cafe Isla & Co. debuts in Bishop Arts this fall in Lucia's former space. Echoing the hospitality culture of the Land Down Under, the new spot (founded by Perth natives) will serve coffee and brunch by day, then transition to cocktails and dinner at night. Executive chef Matt Foley, who worked as sous chef at two-Michelin-starred Marea in New York City, crafted the menu. Love dining in a historic, architecturally significant location? Try Brass Ram and Pop Top in the pie-shaped 2130 Commerce Street building. Brass Ram, on the second floor above National Anthem (which celebrates its one-year anniversary in October) will serve up steak, seafood, and plenty of red meat. Just above that, Pop Top will be a casual rooftop bar. All three are from famed restaurateur Nick Badovinus, who will also open Royal Bastard next year — in, of all places, the infamous former King's Cabaret strip club in the Design District … And, finally, hospitality veteran Andy Hooper (Las Vegas-based Hooper Hospitality Concepts), premieres two projects in the months ahead. Italian steakhouse The Saint takes over the former Two Sisters Catering space in East Dallas, offering an Italian-inspired menu with dry-aged meat and chops, house-made pasta, and vegetable-based dishes. Expect new spins on classic cocktails, as well as a wine menu spotlighting Italian vintages and California reds. Also on Hooper's agenda for early 2023 is the modern Asian restaurant Night Rooster, coming to the Design District on North Riverfront Boulevard. The menu will focus on shareable plates (dim sum, Japanese beef, raw bar bites) and classic Asian dishes, with a cocktail program of Asian whiskeys, soju, and sake. Hickory burger at Brentwood Restaurant + Bar Crescent Farms duck and house-made andouille gumbo at Restaurant Beatrice Cucumber roll at Sushi Mocki KATE VOSKOVA (Continued from page 190) 192

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