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At Milton's, chef Kent Domas' menu includes appetizers such as the Tigelle Platter. Milton's interiors by Brittany Vaughan of Garnish Design. H ouston restaurateur Benjy Levit is more than a scion of the late, great Milton Levit, CEO a n d p r e s i d e n t o f t h e f a m i l y business Grocer's Supply. He's a master of reinvention, poised on the cusp of the next new thing. Recently Levit, along with culinary director Seth Siegel-Gardner and chef Kent Domas, shuttered their chic French boîte Eau Tour in Rice Village to make way for Milton's, a modern American Trattoria open for dinner Wednesday through Sunday. The name pays homage to both Levit's father and grandfather, while their soon-to-reopen Lee's Den (just around the corner, transformed from a wine bar to a cocktail bar), honors Levit's mom, who baked her decadent chocolate cake at his eponymous eatery for years. Enter Milton's through the lower level, where the walls are covered with charming black-and-white vintage photos. The 2 , 0 0 0 - s q u a r e - f o o t space is perched above Levit's casual, all-day dining concept, Local Foods. Here, Brittany Vaughan of Garnish Design has reimagined what a trattoria could b e , l e a n i n g a w a y from the expected to embrace a happy, preppy '70s vibe with a palette of shamrock green and goldenrod. The original terrazzo floors and D'Hanis brick walls, a holdover from the 1960s when AN AMERICAN TRATTORIA IS BORN the space served as a bank, remain. Oversized Holophane fixtures enliven the entry and patio, while tartan-printed curtains hang beneath stained- glass panels by Chicago artist Ben Houtkamp, and rich mahogany and brass accents channel a New England yacht club. A large 11-seat Brunswick- style pub bar tucks into the right side of the restaurant, leading to the bustling open kitchen. Along the opposite wall, banquettes ensconce diners, while an enclosed patio doubles as a private dining room for intimate gatherings. Chef Domas' i n n o v a t i v e m e n u highlights handmade pasta and Josper oven-grilled meats. His dishes combine unique ingredients with techniques that are far from commonplace. Take his refreshing heart of palm salad, the main ingredient imported from Hawaii and sliced paper thin, tossed with shaved fennel, ricotta salata, grapefruit, and orange supremes with a sprinkling of toasted pistachios ($13). His delicate sweetbreads are finished with a brown butter emulsion accented with lemon and capers ($23). Kudos to the bread baker who creates the bounty found in the bread basket, from chewy focaccia to sesame seed-studded breadsticks to herb-crusted dinner rolls. But perhaps the star of the bread program is found on the tigelle and salumi platter ($39). Order a glass of red wine (there are By Laurann Claridge. Photographer Julie Soefer. 104