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plenty of old-world-style Italian, French, Spanish, and American varietals to choose from) and share the Emilia-Romagna-style stamped tigelle flatbread accompanied by house-made salumi (capicola) and pickled vegetables, from carrots to enoki mushrooms, served with chunks of Parmigiano Reggiano, shaved prosciutto, and burrata topped with piquant Jimmy Nardellos, the mildly spicy on-trend red pepper. Truffle hounds should try the three-day fermented sourdough garlic knots alongside burrata cheese, showered with freshly shaved truffles ($36). The star of the menu is the made-in-house pasta, from pillowy-soft ricotta gnocchi with the flavor profile of the famous black pepper and pecorino and cacio e pepe served with a bit of horseradish and preserved egg ($31) to a slow-cooked Bolognese paired with rigatoni ($27). The dish that's caught the attention of many diners is the 100-layer lasagna ($35). For the uninitiated, it's made with semolina pasta, spinach pasta, béchamel, oxtail ragu, and tomato sauce, repeated again and again (20 times in total). Seth Siegel-Gardner, formerly with the shuttered Pass and Provisions, brought his famed cresta di gallo to this menu. Pasta shaped like a rooster's comb is tossed with roasted hen of the woods mushrooms, toasted (nutritional) yeast, sprinkled with tiny pickled mushrooms, and ringed with a gorgeous snow white Parmesan cream foam ($35). Don't miss the branzino, a light, flaky fish butterflied and roasted, topped with flavorful salsa verde and charred ravigote made of green onion, capers, olive oil, and lemon ($31). And what could be more Italian-American than parm? Milton's offers a trio of parm choices: chicken (brined overnight), veal, and eggplant, each one panko breaded, topped with melted fresh mozzarella, tomato sauce, and basil leaves, and served with a side of spaghetti and tomato sauce ($25 to $36). End your meal with the best olive oil cake I've ever tasted, topped with whipped cream ($12), or the towering tiramisu, fashioned with amaretto-tinged mascarpone and house-made coffee liqueur ($14). The bar program, helmed by beverage director Máté Hartai, includes a soothing after- dinner digestive, Caffe Incoretto ($6). I encourage you to order a demitasse of this warm concoction of house-blended amari, pistachio milk, and brown sugar, frothed and served short in a frozen cup, creating a wonderful contrast of temperatures and tastes. Milton's, 5117 Kelvin Dr., miltonandlees.com. AN AMERICAN TRATTORIA IS BORN Milton's Martini with London dry gin, Barolo Chinato, dry vermouth, and champagne vinegar. Advancing cancer care with compassion. A Cancer Center Designated by the National Cancer Institute Comprehensive Cancer Center When you bring an expert medical staff and state-of-the-art technology together with a commitment to compassion, you get a leader in cancer care. Dan L Duncan Comprehensive Cancer Center at Baylor College of Medicine is that leader. We're committed to providing you with innovative treatments, convenient access to dedicated support, and personalized patient care from our team so you can receive the best possible care, close to home. Learn more about the NCI-designated Dan L Duncan Comprehensive Cancer Center at Baylor College of Medicine at StLukesHealth.org/Cancer.